Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.
Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
 Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




General: Slab shuttering and fall

Bottom of Page

1 to 10 of 10

  1.  
  1.  
    We have two slabs ready to be poured with the shuttering almost ready.

    First slab is for a timber garage and 3 of the walls will sit on the edge of the slab with cladding overhanging. On the 4th side there will be around 1m of slab externally which will be relatively exposed and uncovered. Is there a ways to create a slight fall on this strip while retaining a level slab for the garage without doing it in two pours? Do i need to split the shuttering somehow?

    Second slab is a similar issue where a green oak gazebo will sit over 80% of the slab however 1.2m pathway will be exposed. Is it best to slope the whole slab or can it be done in a similar way to the garage with most flat and just a fall on the external? It may be that the fall over the 4m is so minimal that it is not a problem for table and chairs although I would need to level out the pads that the oak will sit on.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 20th 2016
     
    Level with aprons done to falls.
  3.  
    Can this be achieved in a single pour? Do i need to form a separate straight edge/shuttering at the point the fall starts and if so what is best method?
  4.  
    Just one pour, drag and bump down to your shuttering fixed to the correct fall (but working up the gradient), get it as close as you can which will be easy if the cement is not too loose - if you have to, finish just as it firms up for any slight bumps at the down side shuttering. However, with the falls you are looking at it, chances are you won't even notice. :bigsmile:
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016 edited
     
    Posted By: restorationcoupleFirst slab is for a timber garage and 3 of the walls will sit on the edge of the slab with cladding overhanging.

    Don't put the timber on the slab. Lay a single course of bricks on the slab, then the DPC and stand the timber on that. Keeps the timber out of the wet when it rains or if there is ever a flood.

    edit: DPC instead of DPM
  6.  
    Sorry, yes this is what I had planned. Just a single course and then fix the bottom plate through into the slab itself. Did think about trying top shutter a raised 100mm strip however think it best to stay simple and brick it.

    While on the topic of DPC/DPM I plan to lay my DPM down before some rebar mesh, do I lap this up the inside of the shuttering or should I have built the shuttering on top of it? Is it then trimmed after the shuttering removed?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    Posted By: restorationcoupleWhile on the topic of DPC/DPM I plan to lay my DPM down before some rebar mesh, do I lap this up the inside of the shuttering or should I have built the shuttering on top of it? Is it then trimmed after the shuttering removed?

    My DPM was under the reinforcement too. It comes out the edge and up the outside of the slab. And yes, trimmed to suit.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    Cut side shuttering to the fall that you want

    We used to put bricks on top of the wet concrete after an hour and used ones with holes in to help locate the plated, bricks are immovable. Also poke once bent straps into wet concrete before edging float
  9.  
    Like the idea of the wet placed bricks. Did it work well? Guess that you just go back and fill the gaps between the bricks the next day?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 21st 2016
     
    No, just but them up touching each other.

    The next day we put the walls up that we built while waiting for the concrete to arrive.

1 to 10 of 10

  1.  
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
Back to Discussions Top of Page
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press