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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 10th 2017
    I do not understand these overpriced hatches with low values and built in ladders. I am proposed to make a proper hole with a lip, and then use a naturally heavy wood (or whatever it has to be to make it heavy), with insulation backing. Say 150mm of something, and then a simple seal around the edge, which the weight presses down on. Anyone see why this isn't a good idea?

    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 10th 2017
    good idea
    Biggest problem with hatches, whether horizontal or vertical, is that applying insulation to the back of them tends to leave a gap between the main roof insulation and that on the hatch.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJan 10th 2017
    Our main hatch is just that delprado. A piece of thick kitchen worktop seated onto door seals with silicon mastic on the junctions. I still have to insulate it - going to use polystyrene sheets stuck on to get it to the 45cm of the rest of the roof, but, yes Nick, I'm struggling to work out how to stop the glass fibre rubbing off every time I have to open it to try and lessen the cluster fly problem! May seal the edge of the glass fibre with some left over fabric, but getting it 100% sealed to the hatch insulation will be tricky. Jonathan
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeJan 10th 2017
    If I were doing this, I'd make a separate (aircraft-type) "plug door" out of rigid insulation of desired thickness, with tapered edges fitting into a "well" in the flat insulation around the hatch frame.

    To enter, the insulated plug is pushed up (by inserting a pole through a hole in the hatch) - the threaded end of the pole (= broom handle in English...) threads into a fitting sunk into the insulated plug.

    The hatch can now be swung open and the plug ends up standing on its end, inside the loft.

    Up to you how you negociate past the pole - maybe unscrew it first etc.

    In a variant, the plug is attached on a trapeze with a counterweight, so that it lifts vertically.


    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2017
    I think I will make the hatch out out of uditherm insultion itself, which is 140kg m3
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2017
    How about some insulant which is soft enough to compress but rigid enough to keep a "plug" and "well" shape.

    Have the "plug" on the back of the hatch, a ⏡ shape.

    Then build the well the plug fits into around the hatch frame.

    Not sure which insulant though, something like a more rigid mineral wool e.g. batts?
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2017
    What is the area of the loft hatch when compared to the total ceiling area.
    You may find that the differences so large it it not worth much in kWh/year.
    Airtighness may be much more important.
    • CommentAuthormw116
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2017
    Hatch walls made of solid insulation, lined with thick carpet. Loft hatch topped with similar depth of solid insulation, lined with thick carpet. Vertical lift then slide to open. When closed the carpet is an interference fit - provides a reasonable continuation of insulation. Making it work with a traditional loft ladder is a bit trickier...
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2017
    Posted By: mw116Making it work with a traditional loft ladder is a bit trickier...

    That's the hard bit otherwise there are 101 designs that work well if you are willing to setup a step leader to open the hatch.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeJan 12th 2017
    What about those telescopic ladders, might be easier to store next to the hatch.
    I'm going to knock up a hatch today, I was thinking 1x1 PSE to form the lip. A simple seal on top OF this lip then 25mm MDF panel with 6" PIR board foamed on.

    Then just some simple eye hooks to pull it tight.

    What is the best seal strip to get?
    Knocked up the hatch, just need the seal and hook detail. Any preferences?
    P or D section rubber, self-adhesive, from Screwfix. Hooks and eyes - just use hooks and eyes.
    Sorted, thanks
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