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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
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    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    I need to use some bubble glue to reinforce stairs (by fitting ply on top), I know people buy it by the lorry load, so what type should I get and from where. Ideally I would like it to be "drip free", as I also have some horizontal surfaces to use it on.
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    LumberJack 30min PU 310ml carts:
    http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/adhesives/wood_glue/everbuild_lumberjack_polyurethane_wood_adhesive_30_minute_310ml_box_12_P23661.html
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    Daft question are all Polyurethane glues, "bubble glue"? And do all of them bubble the same amount?
    • CommentAuthorDarylP
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    no and no....
    The belgian stuff was rubbish about three years ago. Forgot the name, but had a 'V' in the name?
    Gorialla glue foams up a lot more.

    Try each to get used to the one that gives the most useful open time?
    Good luck:surprised:
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    I've been using expanding PU adhesives for years and it's only lately and on this forum I've heard them referred to as "Bubble Glue" I think I understand why, but I assume you mean PU adhesive.
    Most PUs are quite runny and you can end up with the bl...dy stuff everywhere, on your hands clothes etc. They also eventually set in the container once opened, so finding one with a good screw reseal is important, - not one of those silly push cap thing that snap and get lost.
    There are some PU derived more viscous tube varieties which may suit your application better.
    The expanding nature of the adhesive may present problems for your application. I assume your old stair treads may not be perfectly flat,-hence your wish to use an expanding adhesive, but you'll also have to weigh down the ply tops somehow unless your screwing them too.
    It may be an idea to look at some of the newer tube applied polymer ahesives, some have good "grab" and allow positioning before they set,-you won't need to cover the full surface just ribbons. They will be plenty strong enough for your purpose.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    I was going to screw down the ply to as well as glue as no need to weight down. As some of the treads are split I do need to make the joint nice and strong.
  1.  
    I've been using 'Titebond GREENchoice Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive' for a while now. It's a gel glue, bubbles a little and has good grab. It seems to stick just about anything.
    • CommentAuthorringi
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    How long do these glues keep for when they have not been opened? E.g if I buy a case with the unused tubes keeps until I next need some?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    There is a shop in Penzance called Jim's that sells it cheaper than online. Think the 30 minute Lumberjack costs £8.95 (though can't truley remember).
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017 edited
     
    Jim's - yea - the main (only?) reason to visit Penzance!

    The bottle of Gorrilla I have at home skins over 3mm thick after every use even though the seal is airtight - wasteful, hard work and messy to get the dripping skin-lump out. Otherwise excellent.

    A cheap, maybe compromised (?) type of PU is sold with T&G chipboard flooring.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    I avoid Gorilla adhesive for that same reason tom. I guess they all have slightly different formulations.
    I usually buy online from specialist adhesive suppliers although they mostly have the standard 1l poly bottles with the daft flimsy nozzle applicators. I don't even cut the cap top anymore, just unscrew and pour and use a spatula to spread, re screwing the top immediately. At least that way you get a decent re-seal after use, and to some extent prevent it curing in the bottle.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    That's an idea - decant a bit. The danger is admitting any water in form of humid air into the bottle - I believe that's what cures/skins it. The bottle could be turned upside down before unplugging the nozzle to squirt into the decant-pot, re-plug before turning right way up. That way no air at all gets into the bottle. Any good?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    Posted By: fostertomA cheap, maybe compromised (?) type of PU is sold with T&G chipboard flooring.

    Caberfix and the like meets a spec known as D4. I don't know any details but it seems to work pretty well and comes in squeezy bottles instead of cartridges.

    e.g. http://www.everbuild.co.uk/D4-Wood-Adhesive

    As Tom says, avoiding humidity is key to long life in the bottle. Moistening very dry wood is the key to getting it to set.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017 edited
     
    It's true that moisture cures the stuff, as with PU expanding foam. At one NEC trade show many years ago the foam suppliers were deliberately water misting the surfaces to accelerate and exaggerate the foaming nature.
    I haven't tried inverting as you suggest, should work though, I'm usually "fighting" with clamps and cramps, and biscuited joints at that stage to be too finnicky but as a result, I admit, I end up with on my hands, in my hair, and occasionally on my face.-- don't ask,
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017
     
    I don't think preserving the last bit of adhesive in the last bottle is usually top of the priorities list!
    • CommentAuthorGotanewlife
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017 edited
     
    - D4 just means the highest water resistancy/weather proof grade of glue.
    - My gorilla wood glue is a non foaming type and the robust push/pull cap seems the best of any I have tried - very runny though- had it a while and no sign of skinning unlike whatever rubbish it was I had before. Ahh just looked it up - Gorilla glue comes in a D3 and a D4 form - very similar bottle, same picture etc but the D3 version has a fantastic cap and the D4 has a rubbish spout - probably find the D4 foams too, certainly my D3 version doesn't. Very rare that you would need D4 over D3....See scrxwfxx where both versions on sale.
    - Illbruck (I think) make a silicone gun cassette PU adhesive that is like silicone in its consistency and hence will not run at all, it also foams - this is exactly the product needed for this stairs reinforcing scenario
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 16th 2017 edited
     
    gorilla D3 appears to be a PVA adhesive, not a PU one.

    edit: and the Op asked for a PU one, but I grant that D4 and indeed D3 seem to be overkill for stair treads.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2017
     
    Posted By: fostertomJim's - yea - the main (only?) reason to visit Penzance!
    There are many good reasons to visit. Shame that the Renaissance Cafe has closed, it has one of the best views in the world. Chapel Street is getting a lot of attention, and that has the Egyptian House in it.
    When are you bringing that caravan down next Tom?

    I used to decant, but find that the Lumberjack is pretty stable in the bottle.
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2017
     
    http://shropshire-woodsmiths.co.uk/woodglue-test/

    Your gap filling desire for the glue might not impart any useful strength over and above humble PVA..
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2017
     
    Excellent link, thanks
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2017
     
    Yeah, great reference for different purposes.

    For glueing ill-fitting surfaces incl (my main interest) OSB to sawn structural studs/rafters, doesn't mean that it's all 'gap' (for which PU Gorilla-type 'bubble glue' gets low marks).
    There's plenty of 'fits where it touches' surface and is pulled in tight by screws/power nails @ 150c/cs (for which PU Gorilla-type 'bubble glue' gets good marks).

    So in that application, it's glue for strength where it fits, and glue simply as airtightness where it's gappy. PVA can't do both of those.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2017
     
    Has anyone compared it to epoxy resin?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2017
     
    Did you actually read the link Caius posted?
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeMar 29th 2017
     
    I didn't realise it was discussed in that article. Great article very informative
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