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  1.  
    We've been provided with a hidden gutter system. It consists of metal sections coated in PVC. Joins are mechanically fixed, and then heat sealed with a PVC membrane. We've heat sealed the gutter outlet, a conical section, with no problems, but sealing the strips over the sections is proving a devil of a job. Either the material does not fix at all and is easy to pull apart, or it melts and makes a hole in the membrane. Does anybody have any suggestions for a way forward? I'm tearing my hair out!
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017
     
    Have you tried PVC pipe weld adhesive? Its used for plumbing drainage but I'm not sure of it's exterior qualities.
  2.  
    Thanks @owlman. Not yet. It did occur to me that a glue would be infinitely easier to apply, but not sure whether it would be robust enough for an exterior gutter.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017
     
    Araldite ?

    used for sticking aircraft togther...

    gg
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017
     
    You could also look at flashband inside the gutter it's quite aggressive or there are extra heavy duty aluminium tapes intended for flashing, also with very aggressive adhesives. If you use adhesive make sure you clean the surfaces thoroughly and maybe even very lightly "key" the surfaces, with fine abrasive.
    Experiment a bit first.
    PS. if the sealed joint is not seen, I assume not, then also look at the thick sealer paints, the sort used for tanking swimming pools.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017 edited
     
    Ask the maker of the guttering system. Otherwise the manufacturers warranty is at risk.

    Hidden/internal gutters are notorious for causing problems/leaks unless designed and installed right and access is usually difficult later if there is a problem. I'd even look at using a different system if the maker can't sort this.
  3.  
    +1 for that.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017 edited
     
    Google found this stuff which sounds similar to the product you are using.
    http://www.raintite.co.uk/guides.htm
  4.  
    @CWatters & Nick Parsons, I totally agree. I've written to them. This is daft. It is, ridiculously, the most challenging part of our build so far.

    The raintite seems very similar. It sounds straightforward to weld, but is not. The material is has quite a narrow heat range and is very thin, meaning that too cool = no bond, too hot = hole in the material.

    I'm also going to see if they can recommend any professionals who do this type of work.
    • CommentAuthorMikC
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017
     
    Posted By: owlmanHave you tried PVC pipe weld adhesive? Its used for plumbing drainage but I'm not sure of it's exterior qualities.


    I didn't think you could weld pvc, plumbing solvent is for ABS pipe is it not? . Araldite won't work either. Even specialist plastic glues don't really work in my experience.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2017
     
    searching for PVC weld turns up products
    • CommentAuthorJeff B
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2017
     
    ComeonPilgrim: I would try CT1. I've always found it to be very useful stuff and it will stick to PVC. Also I see they have a new brush-on product WT1 (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azr73X76g94). Not sure how it work in your situation - it might be ok to brush on afterwards on top of a CT1 sealed joint as a belt-and-braces approach?

    BTW I have no connection with the CT1 company, just a big fan of CT1 sealant!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2017
     
    Seamless ali for me
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2017
     
    Oh and on my bottle of Polypipe SC125 it says "suitable for joining UPVC, MUPVC and ABS products". Much ado about nothing, perhaps.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2017 edited
     
    I also googled up...


    http://images5.kingspanpanels.co.uk/file/asset/21911/original/Membrane%20Lined%20Insulated%20Gutter%20Install%20ation%20Guide.pdf

    Quote:

    Note: Hot air welding should be carried out by an experienced membrane welding contractor using
    electric heat gun. Refer to Kingspan Field Services for recommendations
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2017
     
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeApr 1st 2017 edited
     
    Posted By: CWattersHow about lining the gutter with


    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44690-REG/Rosco_RS100113_Matte_Black_Cinefoil.html

    It could be stuck down using... Acetone ?

    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/18527-intro-to-solvent-welding-plastic/

    gg
  5.  
    Thanks for all the great advice. I think in the first instance I have to go with what they recommend to ensure the warranty and guarantee on the build. I've seen heat weld followed by a liquid membrane. But ultimately I'm going to ask for a professional to do it. It's too risky otherwise.
  6.  
    @jeff, that WT1 looks amazing! Ideal stuff. Might go over it with that if they agree. Particularly on the internal corners. I cannot see how a flat membrane can work with an internal corner.
  7.  
    After a lot of investigation, I was advised that only heat bonding would be guaranteed. Fortunately I found a guy who was happy to do it (on a Sunday!) for a reasonable price. Even he messed up the first seal (at which point I was ready to give up), but then he got the hang of it and did a pretty good job.
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