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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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  1.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Victorianeco</cite>Ah yes, the crank.... Any particular torque setting or do I need a new crank or something?</blockquote>

    Very much depends what sort of crank and bottom bracket you've got.

    Old mountain bikes would have used Square Taper cranks. If that's the case it might just be that you've not done the bolt up tightly enough (they do need to be tight) but as above if it's been run loose it may well have trashed the taper.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket

    Newer mountain bike cranks run on a number of different types of spline interface which work in different ways.
  2.  
    Right, so tightening up hasn't resolved the issue. How do I know what crank I need? Do they come in different sizes etc?
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2017
     
    You take the old one to Halford and see what matches
  3.  
    I've ordered my new bottom bracket, can anyone recommend a decent small tool set for the job?
  4.  
    So it turns out it's not the bottom bracket is the actual cranks etc, any recommendations on a new one?

    Or better off just selling bike as is and buy new?

    Or can anyone recommend a good value second hand bike? Is there a price guide like a parkers for cars??
    • CommentAuthoralexc
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2017
     
    Lets say you have this bike:
    http://www.gtbicycles.com/usa_en/2014/bikes/mountain/recreational-hardtails/2014-aggressor-1-0-mech

    The details are not helpful. No brand of crank and bottom bracket(BB).
    I have seen quoted on other sites, SR Suntour XCC-T02, 42/32/26T / Cartridge Sealed
    which looks like : https://www.amazon.co.uk/SR-Suntour-CW-XCC-T202-PB-Chainset-42T/dp/B00B5TW544

    So traditional Square taper.

    I'd expect halfords could swap it out for less than 100 inclusive time.

    otherwise, to do the whole thing your self (bike nerd for Ferdinand)
    crank extractor for square taper. ( park tool as a high end example https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-Cotterless-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duc08-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001VS1M20)

    then some spanners , hex/allen keys thats all. I'd expect you have a whole sets of both.

    Spa cycles do good priced crank sets. eg : http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s109p2000/SPA-CYCLES-XD-2-Touring-Triple-Chainset
    Pick something with the same number lower and upper teeth numbers. The derailleurs can only shift a certain amount of gears, if you do not want to re-set up the derraileur get the same teeth number for inner,middle outer rings

    Those cranks last a good time if set up just right. I have used them off and on, with bikes covering a few thousand miles per year. You can swap in pricier rings, they can wear better. Depends on what gets on the chain. Sand wears stuff down.
    Buy some crank bolts too:
    http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s173p2001/STRONGLIGHT-Crank-Bolts
    I like those
    • CommentAuthoralexc
    • CommentTimeMay 27th 2017
     
    Oh, and tightening, Most bike parts are max 5Nm
    Never overtighten..perhaps that what happened to the pedal. Been there, done it.
    If you get serious about bikes, start with a good frame. build up, re-use the parts you have. Eveything with bikes is Price/ weight / durability equation. You may not get one of them either.
    Personnaly for a non interesting get me to work fast bike, steel frame, rim brakes, alfine 11 speed hub(or 1-9 or 10/11/12 gear). Get a light weight steel frame, use cyclo cross brakes(more maintenance). Plus use some stromg wheels, skinney tyres for summer, grippy front tyre for winter. Otherwise..... I'll have to go full nerd and turn this into a 10 hour conversation on 25 years and nearly 20 bikes, commuting, mountain stupidty, racing fast, and taking it easy.
  5.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: alexc</cite>Oh, and tightening, Most bike parts are max 5Nm
    Never overtighten..</blockquote>

    Eek. Really? http://bicycletutor.com/torque-specifications/

    It generally varies by size of bolt. 5nm is at the low end but ok for a 4mm bolt. It's way too low for a lot of other stuff.

    The pinch bolts on my shimano cranks are 12-14 and running them at 5 would result in the coming loose and trashing the splines pretty quickly. In the absence of a torque wrench a set of Allen keys like this one
    https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/hexagon-ball-drivers/blx9-ball-end-metric-wrench-set-9-pc/p/BON6026509X
    Are pretty reliable. Hold at the end of the end of the long arm and tighten until the key just starts to bend is what I was taught.
  6.  
    Are cyclocross bikes any good as an all rounder?
  7.  
    I don't see why not, they will have a sturdy frame and you can fit tyres to suit your use and ditto other accessories e.g. mud guards, carriers and alike.
    Unless you want suspension - 'cos I'm not sure that they will have that.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeMay 30th 2017
     
    You'll just have all the same issues down the line with a different bike! Would be good to see this bike fixed up
  8.  
    Agreed Rick, but sometimes there's no point in keep throwing money at old things. I don't go off road, the odd patch of grass and bridle path but don't think I need a specific mountain bike
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeMay 30th 2017 edited
     
    Somehow it's disappointing to not fix it after all these posts! 170mm crank arms are so common and cheap (£5?), a whole new chainset might be <£30, a new chain <£10. Then you'd get decent resale value or a good spare bike if you get another and you'd know how to fix all these things on your next (road) bike. I bet solid forks are also dead cheap, or you could keep it set up as a mountain bike (you can never have too many bikes!).
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2017
     
    eBay and the ride to work scheme go together well for getting a new bike. A lot of people seem to sign up and buy a bike but don't use it. 2 or 3 years later the brand new bike is on eBay for less than a third of the new price.

    I got myself a high end road bike for under £200 and it's brilliant. I'm planning to cycle the 17 miles each way to work so it has to be a nice bike. Done it once so far and am working up the training so I can actually work when I get there.

    Forget mountain bikes unless you are riding off-road. They are really hard work on the road. A road bike, sportive, cyclecross or touring are good for longer distances on the road if you don't mind the drop handlebars. Cycle paths tend to have poor surfaces so you'll want something with bigger (but still smooth) tyres like a hybrid. Avoid suspension for road use - it saps power.

    I've bought myself a £40 hybrid on eBay for the handy cycle path to the nearest town. That is 7 miles each way and the hybrid should be OK. The road bike was uncomfortable on the cycle path.
  9.  
    Would a carrera vengeance disc bike with 27.5" wheels make a good commuter?

    My mate is selling his £150 ONO hardly used...

    Could probably get that back for my bike...
    • CommentAuthorSimon Still
    • CommentTimeJun 4th 2017 edited
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Victorianeco</cite>Would a carrera vengeance disc bike with 27.5" wheels make a good commuter?</blockquote>

    No. It's a cheap, crap, mountain bike that won't be much good for anything. Parts not good enough for any real off road riding and the wrong spec for riding on road.

    "27.5" wheels" larger, 700C, wheels will give a smoother ride (and are what most hybrid bikes are fitted with)
    "Suntour 75mm travel forks" - cheap suspension forks are worse than none. Won't work well for long (if at all) and little benefit on road.
    "Tektro mechanical disc brakes" meh. mechanical discs are normally pretty poor
    You won't be able to fit proper mudguards to it (at least not at the front). Not clear if it has rack or mudguard mounts at the rear.

    You'd want to change the tyres for something slick as the fitted tyres will be slow, draggy and wear badly on road.

    It's cheap, that's about the only good thing you can say about it.
  10.  
    I know it's a lot more money but a friend was recently looking for London commuter bike. One of the ones he was looking at was this
    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/13-intuitive-gamma-hybrid-bike-2015

    It's a really good spec for that money - hundreds cheaper than similar bikes he was looking at. Just needs lights, rack and mudguard.
  11.  
    I've decided to hold out for a second hand specialized tricross
  12.  
    Tricross is a lovely bike - good choice. I came very close to buying one some years back.
  13.  
    Any good places to pick one up? Been following a few on ebay and gumtree but courier costs or train tickets seem prohibitive to travel....
  14.  
    Just bought this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172702415622

    Just need to collect it now, are the gears hard to use in these bikes?? I've only ever had flat bars with either grip shift or index gears.
  15.  
    The bike I used to use had a racing handle bar and I found that the best gear change for me was a bar end changer which was a lever protruding from the end of the bar pointing backwards. Very easy to use with the 3 & 4 finger of your hand. I have no idea if you can still get them. Alternatively you can get indexed changers incorporated into the break levers - no experience of these.
    IMO the worst changers are the levers that mount on the centre of the handle bar or on the frame

    Its difficult to see from the picture what changers you have
  16.  
    I saw some bikes being sold on the bay I think are almost certainly stolen. I want a cheap bike but don't want to sustain my neighbourhood bike thief. Whats the best way to buy legit second hand bikes these days?
  17.  
    Posted By: WillInAberdeenWhats the best way to buy legit second hand bikes these days?

    Check the frame number with the police - or a number of online frame number checkers
  18.  
    Any decent pedals/clips for a beginner to use with Tricross? Don't want to break the bank and not too serious about having the best kit etc.

    And a recommendation on tyres for commuting/ small trail paths etc? They have conti gatorksin 23mm tyres currently fitted.

    Thanks
  19.  
    Speciailized tyres are normally really good for balance of price/performance/puncture resistance - see what they fit to the current Tricross equivalent.
  20.  
    Comparison:

    5.4 mile commute to work by road / cycle path

    GT aggressor 1.0 Mountain bike, front suspension running 26" specialized nimbus tyres, slightly sticking brake pistons, wheels don't spin freely. Best time: 30:56 minutes, average speed 10.6mph

    Specialized Tricross, no suspension, 700CC Conti gatorskin 23mm tyres, no running issues
    25:41 minutes, average speed 12.7mph

    Not bad!! Slashed my time by 4mins 15 seconds!!
    • CommentAuthorJamster
    • CommentTimeJun 14th 2017
     
    As a matter of interest (for something I'm doing at work), what would car usually take, how much to park, do you need car for work and do you / can you have a shower / wash when you get to work?
  21.  
    Car would be ~15mins, parking is free, I don't need a cra for work as I have access to pool cars, yes I have a shower when I get in.

    Hope that helps
    • CommentAuthorJamster
    • CommentTimeJun 14th 2017
     
    Yup - it does thanks. Working on plans for reducing air pollution - primary contributor often vehicles as the forum probably knows. Lots to do on different approaches - reduce car journeys; better personal or public transport, promote working at home where possible, spatial planning strategies that don't have work and home 40 miles apart, that sort of thing.

    Getting personal experiences and perceptions is very useful. If this sidetracks your hybrid bike thread, I apologise!
   
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