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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    Tyre recommendations for the tricross? It currently has Continental Gator Skins which are completely slick.

    Looking for something for the road, odd bike path etc. Think 28mm is the biggest I can go on the rims...
    • CommentAuthorSimon Still
    • CommentTimeJul 26th 2017 edited
     
    For maximum grip on road you want a completely slick tyre - think Formula 1 cars for motorised. The patterns on car tyres are there to disperse water in the wet and stop aquaplaning but that doesn't happen with bikes.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyres.html#tread - On 'road' bike tyres on a bike any pattern/tread is purely decorative.

    Off road on rough surfaces tread definitely makes a difference but a fully knobed mountain bike tyre rides (and wears) really badly on the road.

    The tyres they put on 'gravel bikes' are basically slick - keep what you've got would be my advice

    (eg http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/panaracer-gravel-king-road-bike-tyre/rp-prod149455?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Generic+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sYcN1xNXf_dc|pcrid|161850070953|pkw||pmt||prd|544990UK)
  2.  
    Personally I would not like those tyres if riding paths etc, depending a little on puncture risks (farmers cutting Hawthorn hedges, glass on road/paths, sharp flints etc).

    Being pragmatic, I would say go with what you have for a year unless something goes wrong, and then consider options.

    I prefer wider tyres, so if you can do it I would say even going to a 32mm would help the ride comfort, and if it punctures look at something with more protection. I swear by my Marathon Supremes for speed and comfort balanced with protection. But I get farmers trimming hedges and ride some towpaths and limestone dresses trails etc.

    But hopefully it will be fine just as it is for you.

    FErdinand
  3.  
    Can anyone recommend a decent second hand bike for my missus? Medium frame
  4.  
    Any recommendations on a bike lock?

    Thanks
  5.  
    https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/the-best-bike-locks-and-chains-44996/
    http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/product-news/7-of-the-best-bike-locks-5221
    http://thebestbikelock.com/how-to-lock-your-bike/

    i use
    - a Knog Milkman when my bike is in sight (https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/138862/products/knog-milkman-combo-cable-lock-white.aspx)
    - an Abus Bordo on my city bikes because it's easily carried on the bike (https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Abus-Bordo-6000-Folding-Lock-Sold-Secure-Silver_43672.htm?)
    - we've got some Abus D locks as well and some kryptonite cables that can be looped through wheels (https://www.decathlon.co.uk/granit-plus-51-bike-d-lock-id_8316303.html?)

    What you use will depend on the value of the bike you're locking and where you're locking it. The reality is that any of these locks can be defeated pretty quickly with either a super size set of bolt croppers or a cordless angle grinder. If a determined thief wants your bike they'll take it, even in a crowded area in daylight. If it's got valuable parts on it they can strip those off even if they frame and wheels are secure.

    In the city I normally use my folding bike and take it inside with me.
  6.  
    Anyone able to recommend a brake and pad upgrade for my Specialized Tricross? I was thinking some mini-V such as Tektro 926AL to replace the existing Cantilevers?
    • CommentAuthorRobL
    • CommentTimeOct 26th 2018
     
    I like V brakes in general, having had cantilever(poor stopping) and disk(great until they went wrong). I've not used that one, but it looks like the right sort of thing. I have a specialised sirrus on my commuter bike, it's ~10yr now, original V brakes, goes though a few inserts a year.

    I'd also recommend brake pad inserts like the link below. They make changing pads easier, and being big give excellent braking.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarks-Hybrid-Integral-Triple-Compound/dp/B005PVLSIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540553213&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+brake+pad+insert
  7.  
    I'd disagree with RobL on Disk brakes - consistent stopping power wet or dry, don't depend on wheels being true, don't wear out your rims, pads last a long time. most problems with them are actually pretty easy to solve - sticky pistons need cleaning and lubricated (with silicone spray or brake fluid) as the seals can dry out. They need bleeding every couple of years at most and that's not a difficult job with a few basic tools

    If anything does go really wrong the basic Magura or Shimano brakes for flat bar bikes are only about £30 a set now.

    For rim brakes it's unlikely new brakes will make much difference. Change the cables (inners and outers), clean up the calipers and replace the pads. Expensive pads do have more power in my experience. Swissstop were a lot better than cheap Fibrax inserts on my brompton.
  8.  
    Disks would be expensive to retrofit mind.

    I think my bike issue is I need a fork mounted hangar, tektro 1277a apparently later models had these fitted as standard.

    So my choice is either £8 on a bracket or £20 for mini v brakes complete.

    Seems a no brainer really
  9.  
    Changed the chain yesterday on my tricross, exactly same brand, same speed, same links but it seems very loose...

    Thoughts?
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2019
     
    If you copied the number of links from the old chain, thats no guarantee youve got the right number of links. Run the chain over the largest rings front and rear but bypass the rear mech. Pull the chain tight and note where youd need to break the chain to join it. Add 2 or 3 links to this measurement then break the chain at a narrow link so that your quick ink will fit. Re route through the rear mech and conndct up.

    If its still loose youll need to check out the rear mech. Youve not left the cage locking pin pushed in??
  10.  
    I actually did this last night, I had to take two links out so seems okay now.

    Just found out strange why it didn't go back like for like. Wouldn't have thought any wear would make that much a difference.
  11.  
    Did you get the new chain by measuring then old one or by counting the links in the old one? With chain replacement it is link counting that matters.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2019
     
    Unless you fitted the old chain, measured it properly and know its got the correct number of links, its always best to setup from scratch rather than copy the number of links.
  12.  
    Yes I literally took the old one off, counted number then ordered appropriately. When it arrived it was exactly the same length but was slack.

    Now all sorted
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