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  1.  
    Our kitchen design, somewhat stupidly, built a side by side fridge-freezer into a bank of kitchen units (which go floor to ceiling).

    I've put a vent into a plinth but I want to add some temperature controlled extraction to pull out excess heat from the top/side of the cabinet when needed.

    I was thinking about something like a computer fan but would need a thermostant and a power supply. Can anyone suggest what to use and how to put it together?
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTime4 days ago
     
    Have you checked that the back panel of the unit is actually not installed - there may be an air gap, from floor to ceiling...

    gg
  2.  
    We installed the kitchen!

    The kitchen units run floor to ceiling - it's an enclosed space behind. Tall unit to either side of the F/F, cupboard bridging over the top. Ceiling above, wall to the left, end panel to the right.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTime4 days ago edited
     
    OK, hope this will help...

    "I recommend that you check the owner's manual or installation guide for your refrigerator. It may be (...) that there is no problem with this, but the manuals will tell you exactly what clearance is needed. "

    http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=678971

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime4 days ago edited
     
    Bridging cupboards are normally reduced depth front-back, like wall cupboards, but mounted flush with the front of the base units. Is yours?

    Cupboards don't normally go all the way to the ceiling, because the space is difficult to access. Do yours?

    Is the fridge-freezer a built-in unit or a freestanding unit that has been built-in?

    If you can put a vent at the bottom of the F-F at floor level and another above it, near the ceiling, I expect you'll get sufficient airflow by convection.

    Centrifugal fan units designed for 'blow fan' heaters or plinth heaters are available. They are mains-powered so don't need a power supply, and may have a thermostat that could be repurposed or else just buy any mains-rated thermostat with a suitable temperature range.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTime4 days ago
     
    Most tall appliance housings don't have a back panel, for exactly the purpose you describe, can't you remove yours?
    I'm fitting two at the moment both oven housings, floor to ceiling units, drawers beneath, lift flaps over, no backs to the openings where the ovens go. Furthermore the back panels where they do exist are commonly set in from the housing sides up to 60mm to allow ventilation.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTime4 days ago
     
    Posted By: owlmanFurthermore the back panels where they do exist are commonly set in from the housing sides up to 60mm to allow ventilation


    Precisely, this was what I was referring to...

    gg
  3.  
    From the top of the FF to the underside of the bridging unit only a cm or so is required - so check specs. Mine is sealed above the FF - ie the service void at the back behind the bridge unit doesn't go anywhere but a quick check of the specs showed all I needed was 20mm (give or take I don't recall) - I did fit stops behind the FF to ensure it wasn't pushed to far back (and the further back it goes the prettier it is, so this was important). Also the vios behind the tower units is closed to the FF space - so all about maintaining the FF specs - convection does all the rest (but hoover it out a couple of times a year too!!!!!)
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