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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2017
    When I had the u/f heating system designed it was done on a clear floor area i.e. the plans did not show any fixed units, and the pipe runs on the plan cover the whole floor @ 200 mm spacing. I am about to start laying the pipe runs, and now that I know where the units are going e.g. the kitchen bathrooms etc should I avoid going under said units. I am concious if I avoid going under units and by their nature their are on the outside wall I will be not heating an area which is likely to be the coldest part of the floor. Anyone got any views?

    Thank you.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2017
    Do you have EWI ?

    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2017
    Part of the house, the old stone part (900 mm thick) is EWI 100mm kingspan K5 behind cedar cladding. The blockwork extension is 100 mm pU in a 150 cavity. Glad of it this weather the house is nice and cool 18 C downstairs 21 upstairs and 28 outside. A neighbour just finished her house to current building regs and upstairs is too hot for them to sleep in.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2017
    One argument is that you don't run under kitchen units as food will tend to get warm inside - that make sense.

    Do you have good calcs for the UFH heat output versus heat demand for each room, so you know if you need all the meterage of UFH pipe, or can leave some out? If you need it all, then maybe just run the fist couple of passes along the face of the cabinets at 100 or 150 centres, which will tend to be a bit warmer where you're standing at the worktop.

    Your insulation in the walls is not wonderful but ok, but we don't know about insulation under the slab, or the slab edge insulation versus the stone walls, and their heat sink ability into the foundations/ground.

    More questions than answers...my biggest concern is always passing under something that someone might try to fix down to the floor with screws (WC pan). My plumber usually just silicones that, to be on the safe side, even thought I leave the loops shy of the WC.

    Take lots of photo's of the pipes, with tape measure laid across, maybe 6-10 photo's per room, and note what they are views of - you'll be amazed how much you forget between now and finishes stage.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2017
    Posted By: revorshould I avoid going under said units.

    We did. Especially the fridge.

    +1 to what GP said. If in doubt try and fit the original length into the remaining area by reducing the pitch. Too much pipe is better too little.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJun 21st 2017
    Thank you some interesting comments. You can look at many kitchen installations and the fridge is housed next to the cooker. I questioned the wisdom of this at a showroom and was told that as the appliances are so well insulated there is no need to concern oneself about any effecr of the heat from the cooker affecting the energy prformance of the fridge. So should I be worried about a fridge in a cabinet some 150 mm off the floor?

    The ground floor insulation will be 150 mm kingspan will be going in as we lay the pipework, . As for the wall insulataion being ok I worked out that this was the best point againt the law of diminishing returns. I could double the insulation i.e. from 50 to 100 with only an 8% increase in foundation cost. After this it starts to get silly with foundation cost. EWI with render I discounted as I had seen examples of the joints in insulation showing through and of course it is vulnerable to damage.
    • CommentAuthormw116
    • CommentTimeJun 22nd 2017
    We've had some pipe under the cabinets (I think double the spacing) to reduce the tendency for them to collect cold in winter (walls are currently 9" brick, and the EWI is still 'under discussion'). When (if) the EWI goes on, then the cabinets won't get as cold, so we won't need the pipework so much (but then, the room will be warmer, so we won't need the heated floor as much...)
    You could also insulate the sections of pipe that will be under cupboards.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2017
    As it happens the feed return pipes to another room pass against the wall and under the proposed units. The kit of parts have some sort of insulation included, actually it is a corrugated sleeve that fits over the pipe except they are also closely spaced.
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