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  1.  
    In an octagonal plan garden room, hence could be quite hot.
    I got a straight 3.0m run then 1.8m returned at 45deg, i.8m, ditto & 1.8m, ditto.
    I have some old solid Oak planks making up a 3.5m by 1.1m(from memory, but just enough to do with careful cutting) bench top, & finished at >25mm, which I would like to use for this purpose, simply because it is a wonderful piece of wood looking to be re-purposed.
    BUT!
    would I be better sticking with a MDF type product for thermal & and indeed atmospheric moisture stability.
    Particularily since I imagine (in my minds eye) the ends will be mitre jointed, though I suppose I could "fudge" this detail with a brass inlay/overlay/joint or indeed a vertical timber plank(oak)support, kinda like a Pew end.
    I will be providing additional support, at say nominal 900mm centres, beneath regardless.
    regards
    marcus
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 24th 2017
     
    IMO, given the unforgiving location it would be better to "re-engineer" the boards; i.e. rip them into longer less wide planks, alternate, reverse them biscuit joint (e.g.) and glue to make the board widths required. This way you'll eliminate much of the natural tendency to cup and twist. Of course you'll not get the overall grain pattern but that's the price for more stability in the application.
  2.  
    Thanks OM, the grain is very fine, or unpronounced, so that suggestion of "re-engineering" makes sense.
    Btw, Keith, the first class(imho) joiner doing the work was chortling at the local "specialist" hardwood stockist, not knowing what 1/4 sawn meant, and that was 30 years ago!
    regards
    Marcus
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 25th 2017
     
    Keith will know what is meant by alternating the boards in order to keep the finished jointed board more stable. If the stuff is 1/4 sawn then you're very lucky.
  3.  
    OM
    I disinterred the timber just now, and, with surprising ease unscrewed the plain steel slot head screws, that were holding the 3 unglued battens across the back, screws virtually "as new" i.e. unrusted, then wriggled the 3 No. feather jointed,(& finished at a 1 & 1/8" thick,) boards apart.
    Keith imagines it is worth risking using them "as is" since they appear to be stable and might indeed be 1/4 sawn, I cant really discern if 1/4 sawn or not, and dont wish to run a saw across the end to find out.
    Still pondering the mitre jointing difficulties, with the unavoidable shrinkage issues opening the joint, hence my "notion" of bridging the gap with a close fitting overlaid brass strip detail & old brass curtain rail springs to mind, but not deep enough, but I think(with a Baldrick "cunning plan" abrewing) it could be made to work.
    cheers
    mth
    P.S.
    "In for Christmas"
    P.P.S
    I also, praise be to my procrastination, bagged a 40m2 Myson Punchpack(underfloor heating) kit off ebay for £270.00 incl VAT del. c.f. £800.00 + VAT list price
    So thats me underfloor sorted.
    Now only got the glass blocks to source for behind the stove.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 25th 2017
     
    I think you're right to worry about the mitres, sunrooms and conservatories are notoriously hard on wood products. Wood will shrink along it's length and sadly it doesn't do it evenly across mitres so you can end up with one end of the mitre near perfect and the other wide enough to poke a stick in. The wider the mitre the more pronounced the effect.
    If in doubt some form of cover strip as you envisage may be the answer. -or- Perhaps a decorative strip of contrasting wood say black walnut or even the same oak set into a shallow rebate either top side of the mitre. You could do the shallow rebating with a router before fitting but after mitering, and then make the insert strips a few months after the main boards have settled down, even if it means tapering them slightly to fit, if odd gaps have occurred. Otherwise a "T" section piece of metal may be possible.
    If you're mounting the boards on masonry dwarf walls then I'd be tempted to thin insulate/DPC beneath them to stop any humidity in the walls from transference. Also joint them.
  4.  
    Thanks OM,
    I figure a brass "I" section,(or a tiny brass RSJ) nominally 25mm wide and 25mm deep, with the underside of one side of the top flange of the "I" glued(with stixall type flexible adhesive) to the top of one side of the mitre joint,and the upperside of the other side of the bottom flange of the "I" glued to the bottom of the other side of the mitre, should allow the unglued/unsecured leg of the "I" to flex to allow for the differential movement.
    Hoping the 12mm each side should cover any gaps arising.
    Or not!
    The other, more practical option is heavy vertical timber risers/dividers at the mitre points, with the cills rebated in, kinda like Pew ends, with arm-rest tops, since it is intended the 300mm wide cill will double up as an impromptu seat.
    I need to sniff out suitable timbers for that, but still got some 50 year old 30mm thick Teak from Physics Lab bench tops squirreled away, somewhere, I think!
    A good point re the DPC between the masonry and the wood btw.
    Only got 3 mitre joints to worry about so I can afford(the time) to get it right.
    cheers
    mth
    PS
    This project has been 15 to 18 years in gestation.
    and
    I just might have it ready for my wake!
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 26th 2017
     
    Posted By: orangemannotOM

    Now only got the glass blocks to source for behind the stove.



    I'm intrigued.
  5.  
    The Stove will be corner located, backing onto the origional external wall and a "returned" internal glass wall, so the "behind" description was not absolutly correct.
    The glass blocks(and associated glazed panel/sliding door), to form a dividing wall between the new garden room and the new porch, under one roof.
    I will try and link a photo or diagram.
    Regards
    mth
    EDIT
    WoW!
    Near back "on form" since I got the Myson Punchpack 40 kit installed on Friday, with a couple extra pair o hands.
    Anyway I plumbed the supplied pumpset in today and, after soldering a connector for my oddball threaded pressure gauge, pumped the underfloor up to 4 bar off the mains.
    I then disconnected the mains supply and left it an hour.
    When I came back and idly looked it was reading 6 bar!
    I surmise the heat in the garden room, acting on the cold mains water, in an inelastic pipe(Pex-Al-Pex) was responsible.
    BUT
    No leaks even at > 100psi
    And the Myson kit is a pure pleasure to work with, i.e. really high quality fittings.
    cheers
    mth
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