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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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  1.  
    Sounds good, maybe we could have another ranking of supporters of air flight and other CO2 producing activities as well - a sort of Code for Sustainable Homeowners - just so we can see who is consistent in their views. :wink:
  2.  
    What about using flagstones on a bed compacted sand on the layer of hardcore, with the UFH pipes buried in the sand?



    Any ideas how to incoprporate insulation into this? if 50mm slabs were laid under the sandwould the settlement be too uneven? or would it work?
    • CommentAuthorTimGlos
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2020
     
    Just resurrecting this thread from quite a while ago as looking to do the same!

    Does anyone have any suggestions about using a flowing screed or self compacting concrete for the slab?
    Build up would be the same - 150mm hardcore/300mm EPS/Screed or conc with UFH.

    I've calculated deflection/compression for the EPS but am struggling to find any information on what the different types of screed can accept in this regard. Does anyone have any knowledge they can pass on?

    Tia
    • CommentAuthorbhommels
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2020
     
    Don't know about what screed can accept, but this is my two pence:

    I used 200mm EPS underneath, and then 80mm PIR on top.
    Most insulation specifications list the compression strength at 10% deformation, but it is not so easy to get information on long-term maximum compression strength. For EPS the difference between 10% def and long term is larger than for PIR, BTW. With the screed and PIR on top the EPS will be very evenly loaded is how my thinking went, so its lower strength is not a problem. Most EPS is well strong enough for domestic application.

    Also, the UFH guys liked PIR as they could use their stapler to hold the pipes down. The pipes were covered with 80mm screed.

    Don't forget about perimeter insulation. I used 50mm PIR strips all around.

    Most screeds are now fiber reinforced and the strength is quite impressive. The builder really regretted leaving the excess screed mix for too long as he had to work it with a pneumatic hammer to break it up and take it away.
  3.  
    Tim, 125mm of C35 concrete, with A193 mesh on 50mm supports. Cable tie ufh pipes to the mesh. Save yourself a few grand deleting the screed.
    Presumably you have a structural engineer to sign off all the load bearing items like foundations, floor, walls, roof?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2020
     
    I like insulation underneath, vapour/dpm on top of insulation, concrete on top of that , sheet insulation is virtually incompressible under a floor

    I like a142 grid, nice to tie pipes to if needed, can do without screed, I always did 100mm with screed.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2020
     
    Posted By: TimGlosDoes anyone have any suggestions about using a flowing screed or self compacting concrete for the slab?
    Build up would be the same - 150mm hardcore/300mm EPS/Screed or conc with UFH.

    I've calculated deflection/compression for the EPS but am struggling to find any information on what the different types of screed can accept in this regard. Does anyone have any knowledge they can pass on?

    You need a reinforced concrete slab under the screed, if you have a screed. It's not an either/or situation. Since you apparently didn't realize this, it makes it even more important to go find an engineer to design it. You need to do that legally anyway.

    I suspect you need to plan on stepping back for a while and take some more time to learn about the various possibilities and the reasons that people choose them in different situations. Sorry if that comes across as a downer but I think that you will be happier at the end of the day. Perhaps you'd like to start your own thread and tell us a bit about your project?
    • CommentAuthorTimGlos
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2020
     
    Thanks to those for the constructive comments but a shame others jump to conclusions so quickly.
    • CommentAuthormuddy
    • CommentTimeNov 6th 2020
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: GreenPaddy</cite>Tim, 125mm of C35 concrete, with A193 mesh on 50mm supports. Cable tie ufh pipes to the mesh. Save yourself a few grand deleting the screed.
    </blockquote>

    I was going to use self compacting concrete for such a floor in my barn conversion until the technical lady at the concrete co advised against it because there was not enough concrete above the mesh. She was suggesting a screed. So I am looking again at a more standàrd concrete mix but with 10mm aggregate, fibre and wet enough to flow. The floor is 16.6 X 4.7 m so although it has mesh there was going to be a risk with self compacting concrete and contraction cracks. It is not structural..
    I want a good level finish, of course. I have a power float to play with. But the self compacting concrete appeared to offer advantages of ease of placement for a good finish.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 7th 2020
     
    I would have thought that a floor slab is one of the easiest pours to compact, so where the advantage of self-compacting concrete would be least?
    • CommentAuthormuddy
    • CommentTimeNov 7th 2020
     
    Having read about other self builders experiences, I think that is an easy assumption!
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