Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)


Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!

widget @ surfing-waves.com

Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

    I have some dried timber boards from the 1987 storm. Most are beech, but some are Holm oak (see attached). I'm wondering what's the best way to plane and fill them. I thought I could use an electrical plane and a sander, but a colleague says I'll need to take them to a woodyard to be finished. Any thoughts?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
    will look well nice with curvy front edges! can be done with an planer and belt sander but not easy and not as good as woodyard machining.

    filling is well tricky, practice on off-cuts with wood stopper mixing colours til perfect match when dry then use fine black or brown pen to add grain lines.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
    They will most likely be bowed, cupped and twisted.
    If you try to thickness them in their present state, as wide boards, you could loose 3/4 them. If they are worth saving, e.g. the oak boards with burrs then pre cut them to their rough eventual width to minimise thicknessing loss, then contact a local joinery workshop and ask them to do the job.
    They most likely will need "surfacing" first to flatten/true one side, before "thicknessing" i.e. both sides. Be prepared for a substantial loss of thickness if you want flat boards.
    Once you've got clean boards you can decide, or not, to leave the room facing edge, as waney edged or to cut them straight.
    It is possible to true such boards with a router and an accurate home made jig but it does need some skill.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
    the boards would look better if you can just thickness/plane them without sanding but if you are using a small planer you will have to sand as well to get any lines out. Depending on how flat they are and if you don't have access to cheap thicknesser I would have no qualms about doing it myself. Flat is overrated and character underrated! (also better if rendering/finishing walls after window boards are in). I'm all in favour of a good waney edge too (though some in the picture might stick out too much - but you can get away with taking out some overhangs without it looking too obvious).
    Thanks all. I've spoken to my local timberyard who say they can plane up to 600mm wide for £1 or £1.50 per cut. I'll see if I can get away with planing one side. They're pretty flat I would say, but I guess we'll see.
    • CommentAuthorJamster
    • CommentTimeOct 23rd 2017
    Woodyard or local woodworker might be able to cut these for you - keep the front waney edge, cut out and rejoin the worst of the split up the middle. You would need to cut the back edge anyway I would think. Could look great though - have a look on something like UKWorkshop for finishing ideas...
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   

© Green Building Press