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    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
     
    Has anyone done this and care to share any wisdom? Full filling with EPS still makes me nervous so now I am thinking about just doing it all properly using geocell and making a solid floor.

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
     
    What makes you nervous? That it might float? Or sink?!
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
     
    the fact that there is no evidence it is ok to use EPS, and the fact that, on further research, moisture does not need to condensate in order to create issues.
  1.  
    Hi, in a similar position. Can't offer any advice but curious to know what your floor build up will be if you choose the eps route? Thanks
    • CommentAuthorSilky
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2017
     
    Search for limecrete and you will find plenty of threads.

    I'm doing this at the moment, I used Ecoglas and it''s all down. Currently making up the slab on top. 3 rooms and a hallway, total around 100 m2. I'm also in a flooding area which makes it extra silly. I decided in the end to do concrete islands, i.e. slabs of concrete and leaving a 20 - 50 cm border around the concrete to to back fill with something more insulating and breathable. I'm trying both EPS-concrete and Leca-limecrete with NHL5. I started with the EPS but now figure the Leca-lightcrete will be more airtight. Because of uneven walls my expansion strip is on the edge of the concrete islands, where I can attach a compressible strip to the clean lines of the concrete and then the limecrete goes between this and the walls.

    I've used a Belle electric wacker plate, 50 Kg, 100 Hz and it worked fine, we compressed in 2 layers and went over each layer 2-3 times, therefore no problem with fumes / carbon monoxide working indoors.

    Glass foam delivered in 2m3 bags on palettes, getting the palettes off the lorry is a bit difficult without a forklift, you need a smooth un-loading area ( I had to lay boards over a cobbled yard ).

    I wasn't over happy with the Eco-glas product, but I stuck with them as they are local and price is ok. Advertised as a 10/60 mm aggregate, in reality the pieces are everything from dust to 150 x 100 x 100 mm. I complained but they didn't react. The larger pieces easily break down on compaction, but this doesn't help you to get the loose stuff levelled out before compaction.. bit of a pain. Smaller sizes are available but they're double the price.

    The easiest way to get the stuff out of the big bags is to cut them open near the bottom and then just let it drop by gravity into a container / wheelbarrow or whatever, goes very quick, but shame to destroy the bags.. we were told to throw them away ( no deposit ).. which seems mad as they must cost quite a bit. Not very green or eco at all, so I'm keeping them and trying to think of a re-use.

    For my situation the slab is acting as a counterweight, just in case the foam glass tried to float.. I'm dong the concrete island/hybrid slab because I simply don't have the resources to mix so much Limecrete and in the end I'm not convinced it's needed across the entire floor. The concrete doesn't need to be super strong, so mixing quite runny helps to improve the breathability of the concrete ( as the concrete dries the water leaves micro-pores ).
    • CommentAuthorSilky
    • CommentTimeOct 17th 2017
     
    Another tip, which I was lucky to realise before the 1st concrete pour, if you're not using a DPM then give the foam glass a damn good soaking before trying to put limecrete / concrete on top, it really sucks water away quickly
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTime1 day ago
     
    Thanks all. I am going for a screed-less finish - geocell, then woodfibre boards, then lithotherm clay UFH tiles
  2.  
    Ive used EPS under slabs and screed for years with no issues to date, could you expnad on the issues you've read about it
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime1 day ago
     
    Posted By: delpradoThanks all. I am going for a screed-less finish - geocell, then woodfibre boards, then lithotherm clay UFH tiles

    Two questions:
    (1) What is the airtightness barrier?
    (2) How are you going to ensure a flat floor finish?
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTime8 hours ago
     
    I'm still undecided as to what I am going to do for airtightness.

    I like the elegance of simply barging the bricks with cement below DPC and then relying on the fact that mud is airtight!

    However if you are asking about what is stopping vapour transmission internally into the floor then the only thing that can do that is a membrane, so i actually think I am going to do both. With the membrane on top of the wood fibre.

    In terms of levelling - datums to get it measured right, then just being careful with a tamper.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTime7 hours ago
     
    • CommentAuthorJulio
    • CommentTime4 hours ago
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: delprado</cite> In terms of levelling - datums to get it measured right, then just being careful with a tamper.</blockquote>

    In my experience it could be tricky to get this a level as might be required for the wood fibre board. What wood fibre were you thinking of using?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime3 hours ago
     
    Posted By: delpradoI'm still undecided as to what I am going to do for airtightness.

    However if you are asking about what is stopping vapour transmission internally into the floor then the only thing that can do that is a membrane, so i actually think I am going to do both. With the membrane on top of the wood fibre.

    Yes, that's what I was asking about. So you have decided. :bigsmile:

    In terms of levelling - datums to get it measured right, then just being careful with a tamper.

    Sorry, I wasn't clear. What I meant was where is the structural element that provides a solid surface that won't move when point loads are applied? Also, as Julio said, levelling won't be as easy as you seem to expect. At least do a trial area first if you wish to use your suggested approach.

    Might use this instead

    Ah, now that's an interesting product system. I haven't seen it before; is it new? I might have considered it, using the dry levelling compound, for my ground floor instead of battens and chipboard. How much does it cost?

    Note that the brochure is quite clear that it can only be installed over a continuous structural floor. See my Q2.
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