Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)


Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!

powered by Surfing Waves

Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

    • CommentAuthorAndy M
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    Sorry if this has come up before but I can't find anything via Search.
    Is it possible to use the same ASHP to heat a pool in summer and also run UFH in winter?

    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    Can't see any reason why not. You will need a heat exchanger that can cope with chlorinated/brominated water.
    • CommentAuthorAndy M
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    I have a 2000l Akvatherm tank with a coil for our Log Gasification boiler and a coil for the as of yet non existent Solar panels. Could it be connected to that?
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    Without knowing the heat losses for your pool, it is a bit hard to say what is the best way to plumb things in.
    Do you have those figures?
    • CommentAuthorAndy M
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    The pool is still in the conceptual stage but it will be 10mx5m with the walls and base poorly insulated according to French standards. It will have a slatted security cover and possibly a separate solar cover when not in use. We are in Burgundy level with Geneva so isolation levels are bit higher than the UK
    Why have it poorly insulated according to French standards? If the pool is still in the conceptual stage you have the chance to do it properly. You only have to insulate it once but you will heat it for ever.
    • CommentAuthorjonc_uk
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    To make use of the thermal store for the UFH+ASHP I think you would only want to heat it to 30 or so degrees C. The moment you light the fire the ASHP will turn off. Perhaps this is desirable, but it sounds like the TS is going to be heated to 45+ degrees for hot water.

    A smaller TS for hot water and a bigger one for UFH might make more sense. My house in Algarve, Portugal has a 800 litre TS for HW which has been heated from the sun only for the past seven or so years. I have an ASHP for the house, and a separate one for the pool.

    You will definitely need a thermal store to use the pool heater for the UFH if it is designed as a pool heater. This is because it heats full-flow pool water. My Heat Siphon will turn itself off if the flow is too low and occasionally errors with high pressure if the sun goes in and it is caught out.

    I have a Lorentz PS1800 pool circulating pump system run from four 285W PV panels - when the sun comes up, pool circulation starts, when it goes down it stops. The water also goes via 12x Roth big black plastic panels which means for zero electricity cost it also heats the water. Can't recommend the Lorentz system enough.
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeNov 1st 2017
    Is the UFH already built? You can run heat pumps directly into UFH systems if they are property speced (no buffer tank), and the demands are similar. This works so long as the floor isn't low thermal mass, and you have your pipe spacings low enough so that you can absorb the full output of the HP into the UFH (at least for a reasonable amount of time to avoid short-cycling the heat pump).

    The pool will certainly be able to absorb the full output of the heat pump without much trouble.
    • CommentAuthorcjard
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2017
    Your pool is conceptually no different to your thermal store, with the exception that at 1 metre deep it is 25 times larger. It is also no different to your screed, though if your house is 100sqm and your screed is 50mm thick the pool is around fifty times larger when you consider the difference in heat capacity of water vs stone like materials..

    the actual plumbing is easy; most ashp I know of are plumbed on a y plan, where a motorised 2 way valve diverts the ashp' s output either to the screed (and the ashp makes water at eg 30 degrees) or to the DHW tank (and the ashp runs at full chat, maybe 60 degrees)

    If you're only swapping over twice a year you don't even need any valve to be motorised, all you have to do is decide how you want to heat the pool- an in pool stat could set the ashp into dhw mode for rapid(read: slightly faster) heating initially and then when the stat switches off, the ashp drops to ufh mode where it supplies water at x degrees to overcome pool heat loss. There isn't any change to the plumbing/destination of the heated glycol. An ashp in ugh mode will modulate its output to maintain the water supply temp based on the return temp. In the mode it should be striving for a temp diff of 7 degrees between flow and return

    as steamy has said, you need to design your pool insulation so that the pool heat loss is within the capacity of the ashp, otherwise it won't warm up
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   

© Green Building Press