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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeMay 1st 2019
    Is the "EcoDesign ready" room sealed?

    I worry that these standards only consider the contribution of the stove when it is running.
    Posted By: gravelldIs the "EcoDesign ready" room sealed?

    I worry that these standards only consider the contribution of the stove when it is running.

    Hi, yes, being room sealed is part of the standard:

    "The most dramatic effect of the legislation will be its impact on traditional open gas fires and stoves. In future, all gas and wood heating appliances must be constructed with glass fronts and be room-sealed for safety, comfort and efficiency."

    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeMay 2nd 2019
    I’ve moved a little further forward with the fireplace. I installed LED uplights into holes drilled Into the stone hearth and I finished both sides of the arch structure. The stove fitter came out and told me how close I could get the frame to the new twin wall flue pipe to meet building regs. I then fitted dense rock wool slabs insulation (100mm thick) between the frame structure and back filled behind that with a lot of bits and bobs of insulation I had left over from other jobs. I’ve stopped now until the fitters come to install the stove on Friday.
    By the way, if anyone wants the stove - A Coalbrookdale derby with back boiler and hot plate (under a decorative hinged top plate), let me know ASAP. Note, the back boiler has a hairline crack and needs welding if you’re going to use it, otherwise it can just be used as a dry multi fuel stove. Free to good home,

    ‘Buyer’ to collect, we are close to the West Yorkshire border.
    The new woodburner has been fitted (the old one was smashed up to get it out of the house and will be taken in bits to the recycle center) and now I can finish off the rest of the work. I mentioned insulating above the stove register plate and the woodburner fitter expressed concern about putting even rockwool near the flue. I did some research online and couldn't find anything definitive from what I'd say was an expert source - a lot of guess work on forums, which I didn't feel comfortable following with such a serious issue as fire risks. I didn't want to just leave the area above the register plate uninsulated, but I also didn't want to fill it with materials that could either pose a fire risk or off-gassing risk when they get hot, especially in the event of a flue fire. In the end I decided that I'd cover the flue with a purpose built flue wrap (VITCAS Flue Wrap - rated upto 550°C /1020°F ) and then filling around that with rockwool.

    We have a twinwall flue pipe that starts just above the stove and ends well above the register plate. There is a gap at the top where the twin wall ends and the single flue goes up the chimney. I'll wrap this first until its circumference matches the twinwall, and then I'll wrap them both together as much as possible until I cant get it between the wall and the flue pipe. That should be more than sufficient to make sure that the rockwool behind it is protected from the very high temperatures of a flue fire.

    The attached pics show the twinwall flue (black pipe) and single wall flue that I'll be wrapping, and the foil coated high temperature wrap itself. It also shows the end of an old copper water pipe from when we had a boiler stove in there, plus some high temperature foam that was sprayed in to prevent leca that was poured into the chimney void falling through the gaps.
    I managed to get a layer around the single skin pipe and then another around all of the flue. I've now lit a fire in the stove and once it's been going a few hours I'll touch the insulation to see how well it's doing. If it's uncomfortable to touch I'll add another layer and see if that'll do the job (though I can't get any more between the wall and the pipe so the next layer will go two thirds around the pipe's circumference). Once the insulation feels just warm to the touch, I think that'll be fine to then add the rockwool.

    The attached pic shows the flue wrapped in the high temp insulation from the register plate up to where it goes into the chimney liner in the ceiling.
    So the stove has been on a couple of hours and the twin wall pipe below the register plate is too hot to hold your hand against for more than a few seconds. The twin wall above the register plate that has a single insulation wrap around it is quite warm to the touch and the single wall pipe with two wraps of insulation is lukewarm. I was really surprised at that as I thought it'd be much hotter than the twin wall and insulation. I decided to add one more layer of flue wrap, pushing the ends in-between the flue pipe and the wall to hold it. I also had an off cut that I wrapped around the bottom of the pipe where it meets the register plate. This is where I’ll put the bulk of the Rockwool insulation so it’s definitely not going to get hot from the flue with 3 layers of flue wrap between it and the twin wall pipe.

    This means I'm happy to install the rockwool insulation into the void. Happy is probably the wrong word as it's nasty, itchy stuff but it does the job and it'll be sealed up in there behind woodwool boards and lime plaster.
    • CommentTimeJun 7th 2019
    Posted By: Pile-o-StoneHappy is probably the wrong word as it's nasty, itchy stuff

    Gloves and a disposable boiler suit were what I used for similar stuff. Oh and a hat.
    Not too much to report on the current project as I've been away on holiday and working outside trying to develop the garden a bit (a small orchard is being planted). I did chip out all of the awful cement pointing in the wall behind the stove and repointed with lime mortar. I'm not much of a brickie but I'm really pleased with my efforts and the result. I've attached a before and after pic showing the difference. I also took the time to replace some broken stones (they were pointed in with cement and looked awful - more cement than stone). It's a feature fireplace so I think it's worth the extra effort.

    My next step is to duct air from the wall vent that the stove installers put in, to the direct air vent at the back of the stove. I'm just looking for a 70mm diameter pipe that is 5m long, so any suggestions greatly appreciated.
    • CommentAuthormarktime
    • CommentTimeJul 4th 2019
    Really enjoying your journey. Please continue.
    • CommentAuthorCharli
    • CommentTimeJul 5th 2019
    The after-pointing does look significantly better, well done!
    Thanks guys :)

    Lime is fantastic to work with. It doesn't set too fast so amateurs like me can take their time when doing the job and then when it's gone off for a bit, any excess is easy to scrape and brush off the stones.
    • CommentTimeJul 6th 2019
    Yes, it doesn't stain the stones, unlike cement, so is very forgiving.
    • CommentAuthorMackers
    • CommentTime7 days ago
    Very nice!
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