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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    Hi all - my mind is now having to focus on re-coating about 50m2 of cedar cladding and frankly I'm loathe to use Osmo cedar after the last lot only lasted a year before starting to blister - now it's at the peeling stage so it's done for now.

    I'd value useful opinion on what might be best to do.

    I've already been through the thought process of 'do nothing' and just let it age but sadly that's not an option on this particular project I'm afraid.

    So what I'm after is feedback of successful, durable and attractive coatings for (machined) cedar - if indeed there is any!
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    It may be worth a photo to see the level and evenness of staining and silvering it has attained so far.
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017 edited
     
    Good grief - this makes for disheartening reading. Apparently the cedar should not be left exposed for more than two weeks before coating!! Sounds like an impossible expectation.

    Ha ha guess I should take this story with a pinch of salt though as they suggest we coat all cladding on face, back, edges and ends. Like all good builders do!

    http://www.timberinconstruction.co.uk/features/finishes-western-red-cedar-should-not-be-left-weather
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    Barely any of the finish has gone yet goodevans but lots of peeling is starting/splitting ready.

    I'm trying to be very proactive.
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    I also try to be proactive - but unfortunately I am proactive only after the horse has bolted :confused: . I know this about myself and each time the architect put cedar cladding on the drawings I struck it off.

    I'm no expert here but it sounds like the sander will have to come out as a minimum.
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    Cracks in the coating ready to flake - in the summer they were tight swollen blisters.
      IMG_0506.JPG
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    I thought that hot gun might be best way to remove it. If i pull at any of these blisters then it does flake away quite large patches.

    I wonder if a stain might be better than a coating?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017 edited
     
    At a glance Keith I'd say the coating is too thickly applied; sorry.
    Many of the brush applied surface coatings suffer the same. Depending how good you want the final finish I'd sand back and recoat with a thinner product possibly an oil stain type. Thin the first light coat, possibly 50/50 and then a second light coat. Caking stuff on does not help IMO. Cedar is naturally weather resistant, just take extra care with end grain areas, all you need is a nice even colouration..
    • CommentAuthorBeau
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    Not experienced with Cedar but my thoughts would be to sand it off and use one of the Sikens products. I have found there stains to outlast most external finishes by a country mile.
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017 edited
     
    Looking at the product, I don't know how they managed to get it on as 'glossy' as they did. I didn't spot the issue until a couple of months after buying the house or i may have been able to get the seller to cover the costs of doing it again. i contacted osmo for their advice but they failed to respond.

    What is odd is that beneath the finish the cedar is bleached very pale as though it never really adhered properly.

    It does look nice like it is but my thoughts are with you both - a 'penetrating' stain might be better. Sanding sounds a scary option though. I might try a paint removal gun on a patch first.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2017
     
    Why coat or treat cedar! It will survive without any treatment extremely well.
  1.  
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: tony</cite>Why coat or treat cedar! It will survive without any treatment extremely well.</blockquote>

    Not everyone likes the grey weathered look!

    It does look as though it was applied too thick, by brush and not a roller. Roller would be best. It's quite a thick mix. Was it OSMO UV-Protection Oil? Perhaps it was applied on wet/moist wood? None of this helps, but you could leave it over the winter. the weather may actually help peel it off - at least when it all starts to blister off, it'll make for an easier job. However, as soon as the sun hits the bare wood, it will start 'tanning' the wood. I was surprised at how quick pieces would discolour this summer when I was prepping my cedar.

    Shame OSMO are not interested. You could try Wood finishes direct - always received good service from them.
    •  
      CommentAuthorSteamyTea
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2017
     
    Posted By: owlmanAt a glance Keith I'd say the coating is too thickly applied; sorry.


    Posted By: GBP-KeithI don't know how they managed to get it on as 'glossy' as they did.

    Gloss Roller?
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    I painted planed cedar (approx. 150 sq M) with Owatrol solid colour stain( SCS) and after 2.5 yrs is still looking really good and we are expose to south westerly gales straight off the sea. It is guaranteed on vertical surfaces for 15 yrs and 5 on horizontal e.g decking you walk on. Don't know what you should do with a renovation like you have here but Owatrol have a range of products you can use to prepare the surface for their SCS. They are very helpful I needed some metal paint in the same colour as the cladding for veranda posts and they made some up specially for me even though they were in the middle of a premises move. So have a look at what they can offer.
    • CommentAuthorGBP-Keith
    • CommentTime4 days ago
     
    Thanks all.
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