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  1.  
    Hi,

    Trying to sort out the details for rendering around the reveals of the new composite windows that are installed.

    The renderer says that the render won;t stick to the underside of the steel lintel as it's flat with no key.

    My current plan is to drill and use self tappers to screw a strip of Exmet mesh to the underside of the lintels to make a good key, does that sound like the correct way to do this?

    I have seen talk elsewhere of gripfill-ing some external grade plasterboard to the underside of the lintel, but I don't like the sound of that.

    Thanks
  2.  
    Is this render only, or EWI?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2017
     
    Posted By: OracsRevengeThe renderer says that the render won;t stick to the underside of the steel lintel as it's flat with no key.

    My current plan is to drill and use self tappers to screw a strip of Exmet mesh to the underside of the lintels to make a good key, does that sound like the correct way to do this?

    It sounds like it will work to me, but why not ask the renderer what's best? It will be best if you can get a solution he is happy with.

    As Nick says, is there some insulation somewhere? A steel lintel can be a huge thermal bridge.
  3.  
    Hi,

    It's a Timber Frame house with a block work exterior, so the TF lintels don't pass through past the cavity.

    The Renderer is not very experienced with unusual houses, so is a bit uncertain.

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 24th 2017
     
    I would stick a piece of Supalux or Glasroc board on it let the drip bead hang down below it by 5 to 7mm
  4.  
    Hi Tony,

    So using the board you mentioned, what adhesive would you use to hold it to the underside of the lintel?

    Also, will the render stick to it ok without doing something to create a physical key? Just a bit worried about 15mm of
    Parex render hanging upside down from the board.

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2017
     
    No need to render the board, adhere with foam or solvent based gripbond
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2017
     
    Tony, I think OracsRevenge is worried about the render sticking to the board after its been stuck up. I guess he'll be using a regular sand cement render as he'll be putting render direct onto block for the rest of the dwelling. (Sorry Orac but I don't have the knowledge to actually answer you).
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 25th 2017
     
    Don’t need to render the board.
  5.  
    @goodevans, I think OracsRevenge isn't thinking of sand/cement, as he says above; ''Just a bit worried about 15mm of
    Parex render hanging upside down from the board.'' That's a relatively lightweight EWI-topping. However I agree with Tony. Give the render on the main elevation a little 'down-stand' and tuck the Supalux or similar up underneath. IIRC it had a smooth off-white finish one side and a 'stipple' the other. Also IIRC, it is very brittle. (*IIRC: If I remember correctly).
  6.  
    Thanks, ok, that makes sense.

    Just in case pictures will clarify anything, I took these yesterday.

    http://www.ukrobotgroup.co.uk/images/window1.jpg

    http://www.ukrobotgroup.co.uk/images/window2.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2017
     
    Insulation first then Glassrock board, hang drip bead 5 to 7mm below board make sure it does not obatruct window.
  7.  
    You could use a stainless steel drip bead, provided the mesh is wide enough. Build the mesh into the external wall, and screw the mesh into the underside of the metal lintel using tek screws and stainless steel washers.
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