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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeFeb 27th 2018
    This is the latest photo where i have finished the cladding and stained with raw linseed oil.

    I haven't fitted any cladding before, so not used straight edge stuff so i can't compare.

    The waney edge is 11mm thick, but you can get 15/19/25mm i think.

    It was fairly easy to fit, but i forgot to make my depth 20mm approx deep around the doors and the edge posts. So changed these before i got really into it.

    The boards come in many different depths, so you just use what you pick out. At the front and sides i don't have any joins really and so this means it is much easier to fit.

    At the back i don't having many windows and so i have to use 3 or 4 lengths per line. This means you may not have the exact same size board. It is ok though.

    I was using a 40mm overlap (40-50mm is recommended).

    There is no tolerance in the amount it waves around. Some boards are very straight, but some can be really wide at one end and narrow at the other. I would try and trim down these boards and use the main "meat" if i was around a window and doing a smaller cut.
      IMG_1341 21.28.00.jpg
    • CommentAuthorJamster
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2018
    Thanks that looks really good. One last question if you don't mind - what did you do on the corners? Have you fitted a corner trim or butted the edges up? Wasn't sure how the random nature of the w/e would allow a tight joint... Did you end up with a final cost, or do you not want to think about it?
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMar 1st 2018 edited
    The corners were treated smooth 50x50mm from the timber merchant.

    I have just cut the boards to fit butted up. Some edges are a little off and so you get a gap in parts. The supplier didn't give me edges which were cut correctly. Usually one edge would be round as that was how the timber was cut out of the tree. The other edge should have been a 90 degree cut, but it was often well out. I would trim these down if really out.

    I will try get a closer photo at some point. The edge detailing looks fine, but some people maybe really particular with how the boards line up.

    As to cost i enter all costs like this on the computer so i am at £4316. Initially i thought this would cost £2500-3000, but it is amazing how the costs just keep coming in.

    Got to buy some paint for the windows and doors, a consumer unit and pay the sparky to connect it up this summer. I have to finish my extension next though.

    I used 125mm joisting in the frame, so went for a bigger size and a bit more expensive. Roof joists are 175mm.
    I used osb sheets in the workshop bit internally and plasterboard in the office plus a feature ply wall.

    The office i plastered out, inc ceiling. The workshop had the ceiling done, but between the joists as i wanted them showing to be potentially used in the future for hanging stuff.

    I have 4 sockets in the office and 5 in the workshop. Plus 3 LED lights overall.

    The roof is boxed section metal in a brown colour. It was pretty easy to fit and was about £600 delivered i think.

    I put 100mm wall insulation in all the walls and 170mm insulation in the roof of the office. I have used 50mm celotex behind the plasterboard in the workshop. I had a load from my concrete garage which will be coming down, so i think i used up 3 extra sheets of 50mm celotex i have on site for the extension (so had to buy these basically).

    My bargains were the doors and windows from gumtree.

    Pair french doors £5
    2 x 3 y/o sliding sash wood windows £30
    Glazed front door £50

    Hope that helps.

    I would be interested in hearing from others in terms of how much this would cost if you paid someone to do it. I think i have worked on this for about 35 full 8h days, but spread over dec/jan/feb and not working a full day quite often. Plus lots of research for materials etc.
    • CommentAuthorPord
    • CommentTimeMar 6th 2018
    Looks great Marsaday, you must be very satisfied with your work.

    Maybe time I gave a progress update myself, seeing as I started this thread! Foundations, floor and timber framing all done. Just waiting for the weather to ease then cladding next. Urgently trying to get this finished in time for the house build starting in a few weeks.

    I actually have a few questions but think I'll start a separate discussion...
    • CommentAuthorCliff Pope
    • CommentTimeMar 10th 2018
    On the subject of posts in the ground/concrete v. posts sitting on concrete pads, I'd like to recommend using galvanised metal fencing spikes driven into the ground, then 3" square uprights socketed in them.
    The posts are clear of the ground, and the floor joists can be attached at the appropriate heights to avoid levelling the ground.
    Two of mine (octagonal summer house) were rather high on the downward slope and I was worried that they might tend to sink under the weight, so I cast simple concrete collars around the exposed spiky sections, a bit like mud anchors.
    There is plenty of ventilation underneath, and all timber is clear of the ground.
    • CommentAuthorPord
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2018
    Cliff, I went for 500mm cubes of concrete, 6 in total with a wooden post sitting on (and bolted to) each one. The suspended floor timbers are built around these. So from slightly different starts we've both ended up with the same outcome. Either way, it neatly avoids the need to level the site or put in a concrete slab.
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