Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)


Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!

powered by Surfing Waves

Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2018
    How are you supposed to install socket and switch back boxes properly (in general) and also when you rely on plaster for air tightness

    Tricky, from an air-tightness point of view if your wiring breaches the a/t layer. Ideally, do all your wiring in service voids inside the a/t 'envelope', so that the only breach of the layer is the incoming elec supply to the meter, which you have to grommet in some way.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2018
    I parge behind the boxes! never use dot and dab and I seal the wires where they enter the box after decorating with acrylic sealant ---- OCD yes
    I'm not a sparky but:
    Modern sockets and switches are internally sealed eg so air cannot flow through the holes in the socket. There is a leak path round between the edge of the plate and the box, and through the screw holes, I ran a bead of sealant all round mine. Our a/t layer is the inside plaster, would be difficult if you have a membrane deeper in the construction.

    The worse offenders are light fittings, especially ceiling roses and down lighters. More sealant needed for the roses around where the cable enters, and avoid downlighters altogether, particularly the gu10 lamps seem to rely on an air leak to keep them cooled.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2018
    +1 on downlighters
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2018
    Posted By: delpradoHow are you supposed to install socket and switch back boxes properly (in general) and also when you rely on plaster for air tightness

    In general it's easiest to keep the airtight layer entirely behind the wiring and back boxes by using a service cavity of sufficient depth.

    As Tony says, you can parge behind the fittings with plaster as part of the airtightness layer. I would use proper tape and/or grommets to seal any penetrations; most sealants are well known for coming away in a few years.

    There are also airtight back boxes and flexible airtight installation boxes to put behind back boxes.
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2018
    • CommentAuthorDonkey
    • CommentTimeJan 4th 2018
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: djh</cite>There are also airtight back boxes</blockquote>

    Only ones I could find are these.
    • CommentTimeJan 4th 2018
    There's the instaabox as well. I think there are others.
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   

© Green Building Press