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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2018
    Pretty much everything they do looks great, anyone got any thoughts? I am gonna use it on my stud wall for the TV and speakers...
    • CommentTimeJan 11th 2018
    Good product as far as I know, although sheets are heavy. I went with sheets of OSB with regular plasterboard over the top where I needed strength. Actually I forgot in one place - as a result of which a couple of wall cupboards fell off a wall covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Luckily it was an external store room, so I made some pieces of ply cut to the same size as the cupboards and screwed them to the wall before hanging the cupboards on the ply. Looks OK now and is plenty strong enough.
    We have it, with normal plaster skim over the top. Seems fine now it's up, but the guys hated doing it as it is so heavy and difficult to cut.
    Heavy and can't be scored/cut like plasterboard - we used a plunge saw/rails for our cuts which was quick and easy. Cutting out holes for electrical boxes was the biggest pain - used an oscillating multi tool but went through a lot of (cheap eBay) blades and it took ages.

    It does give significantly more robust feeling/sounding walls and being able to hang most things with just a screw is great. (supposedly 25kg from a screw).

    We used the fermacell surface treatment but found it hard to get a good finish, as did the team we then paid to finish it. If I used it again I'd just get a standard skim.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2018
    DJH I did wonder whether OSB plus normal plasterboard would be better and cheaper?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2018 edited
    I've used it on a couple of jobs, one of which was a curved wall on a mix of timber and steel studs, and I echo what others say, but for some jobs it's very useful.
    Strong; Fire resistance; Sound transmission.
    Heavy; Cutting; Fermacell edge/gap filling adhesive is a bu...r to remove when it sets; Fermacell ready mix skim leaves something to be desired IMO; Plasterers generally don't like finishing it.

    I've also used djh's method of OSB with PB on top and regular finishes, cheaper than Fermacell and less hassle.
    If it's only one straight wall with, easy to achieve, accurate cuts, where wall thickness is critical, then go for it, ( i.e.Fermacell). If you require a perfect plain plaster type finish then you can always seal and cover it with lining paper before emulsioning.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2018
    Why can you just use multi finish on it like normal plasterboard?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2018
    You'd have to ask a plasterer with experience of Fermacell for a definitive answer. They, Fermacell will no doubt want you to buy their, value added, products.
    It can work but good adhesion; either too much, or too little suction; may cause lightweight plaster to pull, or dry before a decent finish can be achieved.
    My plasterer did it for me on a small 2M x 3M area that I'd fitted, but cursed me. He did prime it with PVA but maybe an acrylic primer would work better. I guess lightweight plasters and plasterboard are designed as complementary products.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJan 16th 2018
    I used Fermacall throughout and my builder and myself, skimmed the whole with Fine Surface Treatment. Had no problems whatsoever.

    Neither my builder and most certainly myself, are not professional plasterers so I don't know what problem a pro has with FST.

    For cutting, I used the Fermacell knife thing. Scribe deeply a few times and snap. No worries. No need to reinforce external corners, just file flush. I didn't use the jointing tape and generally have had no cracks anywhere, but another time, I would use the tapered board and tape the joints. Only cracks I have after six years are joints above windows and a few doors. No big deal, very minor but tape would have strengthened the joint.

    Can't speak highly enough of Fermacell.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeJan 18th 2018
    Rex - why did you use it, and pay more for using it, over normal plasterboard?
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2018
    A number of reasons. This is probably the only house I will ever build, and although timber frame, wanted it to feel as solid as possible.

    Tap on a plasterboard and Fermacell wall and the latter sounds considerably more solid. Plus, I can put up paintings/ shelves etc without wondering if the plasterboard will take the strain.

    I really dislike all the plaster corner bead that is obviously necessary. If it is damaged, it is quite a task to repair. Fermacell, no corner bead and very easy to repair.

    I wanted all internal and external corners to have a radius detail. With Fermacell, I achieved that on the external corners with a router bit; internals I skimmed with Fermacell Joint Filler and used a short length of 15 mm copper pipe to get the radius. I could have done the same with plasterboard on internal corners.

    I did not need any wet trades in the house as there was no skimming. Fermacell FST to seal the boards, light rub down, couple of coats of undercoat with rub down, two emulsion top coats. Job done, no experience necessary, easy peasy.

    The disadvantages are that it is heavy and very dusty when cut or machined. A plunge saw gives bloody wonderful cuts, almost too good as the joint stick works better with a raggedy edge.

    As for weight, the full sized boards are not really a one man job, so I bought a pair of board carries from Axminster (http://www.axminster.co.uk/wallboard-carrier-391025). One of the best tools I have ever bought; you will never want struggle with large sheets again.

    So yes, Fermacell may have been a bit more expensive but for me, it was win-win on all counts.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeFeb 26th 2018
    Hi all

    can anyone recommend what primer to use on fermacell if you decide to skim? Heard people mention blue grit but query how permeable that is. Having said that, how much of an issue is that? I had understood that in passiv haus you want the internal wall to be less permeable and the outside much more so.

    However I wonder if DG27 works instead?
    • CommentAuthorbogal2
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2019
    Any updates on where to buy Fermacell from?
    • CommentAuthordb8000
    • CommentTimeJan 4th 2019
    I got it from FGF in Bristol. They had the boards in stock and the fine surface treatment in order. I did a ceiling but required a board lift as they’re so heavy!
    • CommentAuthorMike1
    • CommentTimeJan 6th 2019 edited
    Personally I'd probably use a heavy duty plasterboard - for example Gyproc Duraline / Gyproc Habito / Knauf Performance Plus. They're much more substantial than regular plasterboard, but can still be handled and skimmed normally.
    DG27 works well for clay plaster over fermacell.
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