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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorandyman99
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2018
     
    Sorry I know there are countless threads on this, but somehow I cant find the answer I’m looking for!

    I’m preparing to insulate under suspended wooden floors in a 1960’s bungalow. I will lift all the floorboards and fit quilt insulation between each rafter pair using a suitable vapour barrier. I’m also considering fitting UFH before refitting the floorboards. The UFH would be heated by a new condensing boiler (oil).

    From previous posts and research, options seem to be:

    Spreader plates - but I’m worried about the reports of creaking.

    Dry mix - Not sure how I would go about this method if using quilt, and I must admit I have pretty much decided its not what I want to do.

    Thinner foil faced grooved poly boards -
    http://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/prowarm-foiled-faced-in-joist-batten-system
    https://www.omnie.co.uk/foilboard-suspended/

    These seem like quite a good idea, but I think they’ll become rather expensive when scaled up over the whole house.

    I’ve never handled this pipe, but I assume it needs to be fairly well secured in place. Are there any suitable clips people have come across that might be usable? Is this build up likely to work or do I need the pipes to be embedded in something to help transmit heat into the floorboards?

    Thanks. Andy
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 31st 2018
     
    The pipe is just pressed into the grooves in the boards; it doesn't need clips. Normal pipe clips are fine where it isn't in the grooves. The foil on the foilboard distributes the heat.

    https://www.omnie.co.uk/torfloor-suspended/ looks easier to install. I have no idea about prices.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2018
     
    I happen to know someone senior with a lot of practical at a market leading UFH heating company and he recommends against all the retrofit board type options. The only way to do it on top of boards is getting a strong floor, first of all, with minimal deflection, and then using one of the clip in pipe systems and then using a self levelling latex screed. Its what I am doing upstairs in my house (after tripling the size of my joists!)
    • CommentAuthorandyman99
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2018
     
    I’ve emailed Omnie for some quotes for both their suspended floor systems, it doesn’t seem possible to find out prices without them quoting for a complete installation. I suspect this is going to be rather expensive but we will see.

    I can understand that the best solution would be to have pipes embedded within screed/thermal mass, plenty of insulation below and use low temperatures to heat, but for me this is not going to be possible, I need to adapt the existing floor rather than start afresh.

    I’ve come across a system that appears to just use clips within existing insulation and a flat aluminium plate across the top.

    https://www.underfloorheating.co.uk/Files/127465/Profi-joist.pdf

    Obviously there could be the possibility of expansion clicking, but it looks like it could be a much cheaper way of proceeding.

    I accept that I will need to run my system at a higher than optimum temperature.

    I guess the bit I don’t quite understand is whether the various boards you can buy are really just for physically locating the pipes or whether they help to transfer heat into the floor or indeed even if they do, does it really matter? If I have a slightly slower heat time then I can adapt accordingly. My worry is installing a system that doesn’t ever warm up the floor enough.
    • CommentAuthordelprado
    • CommentTimeFeb 1st 2018
     
    My solution isnt a screed one - as I say you just lay the plastic mesh over the ground put the p[ipe in and poor latex on top. Look at Uponor's minitec.
  1.  
    I'm stamping on my crap humour!
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