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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2018
    As mentioned on a couple of other threads I have 200 year old house, and modern extension I believe was built in around 1989. The L shaped extension is the main living/dining/kitchen area so I want to concentrate on this before I go back to the more complicated old house.

    There is a lot of glass in this extension. There are two very large twin wall polycarbonate skylights (1.2sq m each), but I have dealt for these for now with a DIY solution by adding a frame at ceiling level and sitting a modern double glazing insert on this, and this has worked very well see pic https://www.dropbox.com/s/r86t1unxudlghmi/2018-02-09%2009.30.22.jpg?dl=0.

    The wall windows are double glazed but late 1980's, with very conductive frames and failed units, and I plan to replace these, with double or triple, yet to investigate this, but my thinking is to do CWI first, partly because it is free (energy company paying), minimal disruption, and a quick win. Can't think of any reason not to do this before the windows?

    Anyway, I had a company called Everwarm (part of Lakehouse) round this morning. They did the survey and confirmed they could do it at no cost to me. I've mentioned on a previous thread that an old wall butts up against the outside of one of the cavity walls, but they think they may be able to fill this from the top of the cavity rather than have to fill from the inside, which would be a bonus.

    The only negative so far, is that I asked the surveyor what product they used and they told me bonded EPS balls. I asked him if he knew the brand and he said Knauf CarbonPlus, which appears to be blown mineral wool, and as far as I can see Knauf don't even do EPS balls. So, that's not great, but I can contact the company and confirm which it is.

    My research so far seemed to point to bonded EPS balls being preferable, but I thought I would check with the experts on here first?

    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2018
    Eps is best, graphite eps marginally better, bonded is good
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2018
    Yes Knauf CarbonPlus is a mineral wool not EPS balls...


    From what I've heard EPS balls are less likely to allow water to cross the cavity.
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2018
    Thanks Tony and CW.

    Yes, that's what I'd heard too, that the EPS balls allowed a certain amount of draining or something along those lines.

    I've emailed the company to check which it is.

    Just noticed that the guy hasn't plugged the hole he drilled either! Will have to attend to that before the snow that is allegedly on its way...
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeFeb 9th 2018
    Also worth considering is two-part PU foam, which has about the best U value and also has significant airtightness benefits.

    EPS (white) 0.040 W/m²·K
    EPS (graphite) 0.032 - 0.034 W/m²·K (depends on brand)
    PU 0.028 W/m²·K

    Downside of EPS beads vs. blown wool is that it suffers more from thermal bypass.

    There was a recent thread about PU (December?) where it was used for newbuild.
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeFeb 10th 2018
    Thanks Tim.

    Will need to see what the installer comes back with in terms of what they use, and then make a decision comparing what they use and will install for free, versus paying for something else. I might be able to make an arrangement with the installer to pay to upgrade the materials beyond what the energy company are subsidising. Will update thread once I hear back from them.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeFeb 11th 2018
    Posted By: TimSmallAlso worth considering is two-part PU foam, which has about the best U value and also has significant airtightness benefits.
    Tim, do you know any suppliers or installers? I know Walltite, is that the kind of thing you mean?

    Most CWI installers seem to do fibre or EPS bead at best.
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2018
    Finally got a response from the installer about the product they use, and it is energy store graphite super bead. They seemed taken by surprise that someone actually asked this question and its taken 3 goes to get an answer!

    I couldn't get exact values for thermal conductivity, but presume around 33-35 from what I can find on the BBA site for this company. Sounds to me like this is good to go, and then I can move on to start thinking about windows.
    • CommentAuthorMikC
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2018
    If you are getting beads blown in for 'free' the installers might not care too much about getting a thorough fill. Below window cills is a common area left unfilled, as is filling right to the top of the cavity. I would be there to nag them if I were you :)
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2018
    Thanks MikC, I will be present, although I am not sure how I would know whether it is getting a full fill? I will be replacing the windows hopefully later this year, which will give an opportunity to check the fill under the cills.
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2018
    Posted By: Kenny_MI am not sure how I would know whether it is getting a full fill?

    In the case of my cellulose, there was a calculated volume to be filled (I think the architect worked that out in my case) and the supplier/installer gave me a certificate stating how much cellulose had been injected. The two should match!

    The other approaches are thermal imaging or drilling holes and an endoscopic camera.
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeFeb 14th 2018
    Thanks djh. I think what I will do is ask the installers how they know its fully filled, and if nothing else that will at least mean that they know I am aware of how it works. Once its in maybe a scan of the wall with the IR thermometer should highlight any cold spots, and a look in the cavity once the windows are out.
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