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General: Timber frame door linings

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  1.  
    Hi,

    My timber frame has some internal structural elements that were built using 140mm x 32mm CLS

    The issue I have is that fire door linings (or any door linings) for these don't exist at this size.

    3 + 12.5 + 140 + 12.5 +3 = 171mm width

    Is my only option to create my own linings? Don't fancy that with all the rebating for seals, etc.


    For my smaller studwork, door linings to suit 38 x 89 CLS are reasonably common.


    Thanks

    Pete
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 23rd 2018 edited
     
    Creating your own door casings isn't difficult, You don't have to rebate just machine rectangular section timber PSE to the required size and thickness to accommodate your door widths, with fitting allowances. Once fitted and with the doors hung you can apply continuous loose stops to suit.

    P.S. If you're careful, you can even rout the hinge seatings to a pre-arranged pattern on the bench before fitting the casings.
  3.  
    Hi,

    As these are fire doors, do I not need to rebate to fit the intumessant seals?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 23rd 2018
     
    As per the hinges, do it on the bench before fitting.
  5.  
    OK thanks, will look to see what sizes of planed timber they do so I don't have to rip then down to the right width too.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMar 23rd 2018
     
    If you want to paint the casings then you may be better off going to the nearest joinery workshop and have them machined to order, that way you'll get a better quality timber than is available in the DIY sheds. The price difference probably won't be much either.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeMar 24th 2018
     
    You can use standard linings and extend them by lapping a piece behind, or flush, wafer-jointed. A bit of a step in visible face can look better than an over-wide slab of modern softwood which (unlike classic examples) will cup noticeably.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 24th 2018
     
    I don’t like butt joins, will crack as wood settles and present future difficulties, steps are fine.

    We always put linings in with heads packed wider than the door (6mm) then on hanging door used “fighting men: wedges to leave door perfect with no planering.

    We could have a nice discussion about the old chestnut of how big a gap under a door should be :)
  9.  
    Posted By: tonyWe could have a nice discussion about the old chestnut of how big a gap under a door should be :)


    In an old leaky house, as small as possible to stop draughts. In an airtight house with MVHR a large gap (10mm+) to prevent draughts.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2018
     
    Then came along carpets, sloping floors, out of plumb walls, tolerance and intolerance all in straight line.
  11.  
    Posted By: tonyThen came along carpets, sloping floors, out of plumb walls, tolerance and intolerance all in straight line.

    Wasn't that why they invented rising butts.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2018
     
    Posted By: PeterStarck
    Posted By: tonyWe could have a nice discussion about the old chestnut of how big a gap under a door should be :)

    In an old leaky house, as small as possible to stop draughts. In an airtight house with MVHR a large gap (10mm+) to prevent draughts.

    No gap needed in any kind of house. Conceal the ventilation above the head of the lining.
  13.  
    Thanks, not sure if the joinery companies around here will get anywhere close to the £20 or so the cheaper linings come to.

    I don't have a lot of room to play with in the opening, so want to keep the lining material quite thin to allow room for shimming if needed.

    Across the door, I am looking at:

    shim gap + lining width + door gap + door + door gap + lining width + shim gap.

    normal lining = 3 + 27.5 + 3 + 838 + 3 + 27.5 + 3 = 905
    fire lining 3 + 32 + 3 + 838 + 3 + 32 + 3 = 914

    Most of my studwork have rough openings of around 910 so I need to be failrly mean with the lining thickness whilst still maintaining the fire door requirments, etc.

    I think I will probably try to make one of the larger ones myself on my ALDI saw sable and see how it turns out.

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeMar 25th 2018
     
    our BCO didn't care for intumescent seals on our fire doors so we did without.

    May be worth asking the question!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeMar 26th 2018
     
    Posted By: snyggapaour BCO didn't care for intumescent seals on our fire doors so we did without.

    Presumably you weren't *required* to have fire doors at those positions? Else that's a derelict BCO.

    If you are required to have fire doors, then check the installation instructions for the particular doors, since they will contain the requirements for the linings as well (thickness, material etc).
    • CommentAuthorsnyggapa
    • CommentTimeMar 26th 2018 edited
     
    he did require fire doors, although we were permitted to use intumescent coating over the oak plank doors so it wasn't even a "rated set" as such. I guess he was using his judgement of "reasonable" as opposed to blindly following the approved documents

    It's only a simple 2 story dwelling , we only "needed" the doors because the windows don't quite open wide enough to count as an escape window from upstairs according to part B and we over-provisioned smoke alarms so presumably he looked at the package as a whole
  17.  
    I had a similar problem and had to make my own. They were pretty straightforward though. I can show you how I did it and you can borrow my router if you'd like!

    Paul

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