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    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 9th 2018
     
    What ho one and all,

    SWMBO has decided that the large windows we wanted in the house, are letting in too much UV light and therefore I must apply a 'film' to the higher glazing. Admittedly, this would reduce the summer heating (hopefully) as well.

    Not that it makes any difference, but it is 3g with all the coatings, and I am under the impression that one of those coatings is a UV reduction, so her 'wants' are probably waste of money. But you know who is the boss!

    I now have the film. It is not sticky but apparently adheres via 'static attraction' when applied to a wet window and squeegeed to remove the water. I have done this sort of thing before, so do know what I'm doing (sort of!), however ..............................

    For example, one window is 1.4m high x 0.5m wide. To cut this off the roll, I will have to lay it on a large table, and my concern is that in unrolling, I am certain to cause a static build-up in the film that will attract all kinds of household dust.

    What is the best way to avoid or remove this static build-up before applying the film to the window?

    Thanks and toodle-oo

    Rex
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeApr 9th 2018
     
    perhaps an anti-static spray such as used by graphic artists...

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 9th 2018
     
    Maybe use conductive foam, or aluminium foil on the table to unroll onto? I dunno really - I expect there's a standard answer that a good tradesman or shop could tell you.
  1.  
    Can you unroll it (with help) straight on to the window?
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeApr 9th 2018
     
    Some of the glazing calculators will give the UV reduction fraction. A quick look at Pilkington Spectrum shows a 75% UV cut with triple glazing (with 2x "K Glass S" panes). You can specify UV filter coatings at time of manufacture as well. I think LBNL "Window" might give UV attenuation at different wavelengths BICBW.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 9th 2018
     
    Gentlemen,

    Thanks. I have been doing some research with Mr Google plus a number of phone calls to the company that supplied the film.

    The instructions say ' .....remove backing paper.' This film has no backing paper; it transpires that there is in fact an ultra - ultra thin backing, cling film like layer, about 1 micron thick but the instructions don't mention that.

    The next issue is, how to separate the film form the 1 micron backing layer? The secret is apparently with a bit of sellotape on each side and pull apart. Easy when one know how! Pity the instructions don't suggest anything.

    The suggestion is (and this would reduce/prevent static dust attraction), remove the backing layer and spritz the film with water. Grab by the edges and take to the already spritzed window. Easy on a small(ish), window but not so easy on a 1.5m x 0.5m window that is above the front door.

    Oh well, these things are sent to challenge us!
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 9th 2018
     
    Posted By: RexThe suggestion is (and this would reduce/prevent static dust attraction), remove the backing layer and spritz the film with water. Grab by the edges and take to the already spritzed window. Easy on a small(ish), window but not so easy on a 1.5m x 0.5m window that is above the front door.

    If it's anything like putting transfer decals onto boats, you can move it around a little bit straight after you apply it, and the tricky bit is avoiding air bubbles under it. If you do get a bubble then popping it with a fine needle is a good way to get rid of it.
  2.  
    When I had Clearview Vista80X film applied to my 3/4 glazed gable windows last year, they applied the film straight from the roll, separating the backing as they went.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
     
    Again, many thanks.

    The largest piece I have to apply is about 1.8m high by the width of the roll, which is 1.5m Unfortunately, it is not square at the top but a sloping window. All the Youtube videos show peeling off the ultra-thin (like cling-film) layer from the back, spritz both the windows and the sticky backing, grab the top corners and walk with this larger, lightweight, floppy, sticky sheet to the window and apply. Easier said than done, especially when the top of this window is around 3m above the floor!

    So I think I will spritz the window, start peeling the backing off a little, hang the film from the frame, and as I peel more backing off, spritz the sticky side as I go.

    Although, there is likely to be sufficient water on the glass that spritzing the sticky aide may not be necessary.

    I have a modus operandi in mind and am sure it will be OK on the day.

    Rex
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    What ho one and all,

    Thought I would give a heads-up as I have put up the first piece, 1.5m x 1m. It was a little more challenging than all the on-line videos show, but they are not working up a ladder!

    Interestingly, with a lot of pressure to remove the water, there is virtually no dust trapped. Given where the window it (above the front door) it is not a problem as one cannot really look out of it.

    The best tool for working above the door was the Niwaki (Japanese style) ladder which provides an incredible stable and secure working platform.

    I tried the method suggested by PeterStarck (pulling the backing off as I went, and attempting spritz the film as it had the backing removed. I had already spritzed the window. The problem was, working single handedly, pulling the backing away caused the film to slide down the window as the glass and frame were wet, so the film was not actually sticking yet.

    Hopefully, it will be easier for the other panes. We shall see!
  3.  
    Posted By: RexI tried the method suggested by PeterStarck (pulling the backing off as I went, and attempting spritz the film as it had the backing removed.


    I forgot to mention that there were two installers, one at the top of the ladder and one at the bottom.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    I thought as much, and that would certainly make things easier.

    Although I am certain that SWMBO would help if asked, she does not have a great sense of 'what to do' when it comes to these things and would offer suggestions that would not help. It is easier to struggle alone than get her 'expert' assistance!

    I did try masking tape to hold the film at the top, but because the frame was wet, it did not stick.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    Posted By: RexI did try masking tape to hold the film at the top, but because the frame was wet, it did not stick.


    How about using a large magnet (out of a discarded sub-woofer) and a piece of metal, one either side of the glass...

    gg
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime6 days ago
     
    Posted By: gyrogear
    Posted By: RexI did try masking tape to hold the film at the top, but because the frame was wet, it did not stick.
    How about using a large magnet (out of a discarded sub-woofer) and a piece of metal, one either side of the glass...

    Given that you'd want something to protect the glass from the metal, and given that the mechanism is how some robotic window cleaners work by sliding over the glass, I doubt the friction would be sufficient.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTime2 days ago
     
    With 3g, the distance between inside and outside is quite large.

    But talking of magnets and on a different topic, I have a number of 10mm diameter magnets to be used for door latching. Saw a YouTube thing about Eddy current. Stack the magnets together and drop them down a length of 15mm copper pipe. Dependent upon the length of the pipe, it can take X seconds to fall. Some 1m copper I have, it takes a good tens seconds for the magnets to reappear! Bloody incredible.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTime2 days ago edited
     
    Posted By: RexSome 1m copper I have, it takes a good tens seconds for the magnets to reappear!


    When I go down The Magnet, to copper few tubes of John Smith's, I don't reappear for a couple of hours, generally...

    gg:shamed:
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