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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeApr 10th 2018
    I am just starting to do some research into wood burners as i have decided to have one fitted in my new extension.

    I am at the point where i am still building the extension, and i am starting again on the walls quite soon.

    I need to think about putting the flue into my wall. I am wanting to take the flue out of the wall rather than up and through the flattish roof. I am thinking it must be easier taking the flue out of the wall instead of up through the deck and then a metal roof.

    Just looking at a wood burner for the room only, no central heating capability.

    Any recommendations or areas i need to really think about.

    An Aga burner at about £700 was recommended by a neighbour.

    As i said i haven't done much research yet, so any info appreciated.
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeApr 10th 2018 edited
    Depending on the room layout etc. I'd be inclined to install the wood burner either in the center of the room, or else on an inner wall (to get the thermal mass), while having as much exposed flue pipe as poss, for greatest heat transfer, before taking it out finally through the wall.

    I'd tend to go for a smaller unit rather than a large one, and run it daft, as they are more efficient when given "some stick" !

    Depending on available height, a ceiling fan makes a good companion for a WBS.

    • CommentAuthorIan1961
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018 edited
    Posted By: marsadayAny recommendations or areas i need to really think about.

    If the wood burner will be exposed to the room rather than recessed into a fireplace and you have children then make sure you leave plenty of room for a good fireguard as the top of the stove will be hot enough to burn skin. There are options from some manufacturers to have touch-safe sides. An insulated flue is also safer and promotes a better burn by keeping the gases hotter for longer.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    Obviously depending on room size, but as a general rule, and for a room heater only, 5 to 6 kW is usually more than enough. Anything larger and the chances are you'll roast.
    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    5kw and under don't need a ventilation duct in the same room as the burner - over 5kw and you do.
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    A friend of mine got a really small burner - 2 or 3 kW as I recall - heated his detached double garage with no problems (insulated a bit). Just a warning the burners are cheap but the flue systems can be expensive - and if in a dwelling the rules are extensive - right up the the position of the top of the flue.
    • CommentAuthorArtiglio
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    As mentioned above, be careful when sizing the burner, too many people go for a larger burner to have a bigger “ flame window” resulting in overheating if run efficiently or soot/tar issues trying to run it cooler.
    In the event you need 5kw or more, i’d personally site it on an outside wall and use a model that has a ducted direct air supply, i’d also take the flue straight through the wall and up externally, most certainly would not be optimal in terms of efficency, but does away with vents/airbricks with associated draughts and makes flue installation much easier.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    What's the heat loss of the house and the room in which it is installed? You can't really make any decisions until you know that. In the best houses even the smallest stove could be overkill.

    Has to be room sealed really, otherwise the rest of the time you're just moving heated air out of your house (still occurs via conduction with RS but less so). So work out where you'll run the ducting.

    ISTR there's a German certification system for stoves - this might test their permeability over time and the ability of a RS stove to remain room sealed. Not sure on the name for this...
    • CommentAuthorHollyBush
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    Think about:
    - Hearth, materials, size, location
    - size of glass window - they are nice, but they do break - so the bigger and more complicated the higher the replacement costs small flat approx £15, large curved circa £300+ (yes huge difference)
    - wood store (inside and out)
    - size of wood to go into burner
    - DEFRA approved

    Agree with many comments above
    - run fast and hot
    - don't over-size
    - talk to the installer before you decide, they all have different view on everything - type of flue, stove, external air supply, ventilation etc. We spoke to 3 and got massively different quotes and advice, some plain wrong, some good, some different to building regs, yet sensible good advice - and as they will sign it off, it is easier to work with them from the beginning.
    - you can get the local authority building inspector to sign off, but we found cheaper and easier to use a qualified HETAs installer
    • CommentAuthorHollyBush
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    Also consider sweeping options - some you sweep through the stove, some need a (costly) point to sweep through the chimney
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    A small fire run hot will need very frequent refueling, a larger one run cool to last longer and to limit the output will be inefficient.:sad:
    I'd be thinking about a small stove with a good amount of thermal mass to absorb some of the heat and spread the delivery over a longer period. The ultimate in this would be a masonry or tile stove - popular in Europe but I don't hear much of them in UK. An uninsulated brick flue on an internal wall behaves a bit like a masonry stove and works well for us here.
    • CommentAuthorArtiglio
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    The rate of refuelling and temperatures with practice is not too bad with most stoves. Get it up to temperature as fast as you can with small cross section fuel that burns very fast, then swap over to much larger section but smaller surface area fuel, with a bit of experimentation and experience you soon find the optimum fuel size and reduce refueling to a minimum.
    Maintaining the stoves air tightness giving airflow control solely through the stove controls makes a huge difference to control ability and comfort.
    • CommentAuthormike7
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    Amen to that- well put, Artiglio. Short fat logs are the way to go. I use a vermiculite-insulated 'hat' over just one such log to enable it to burn happily and hot all by itself. Some wood - elm for example - not so good at this.
    Something else to consider is the height of the flu. If you are having a single story extension, will the flu outlet be sufficiently high enough to avoid polluting yourself and your neighbours?

    Our house is three story's, so including the roof apex the chimney stack is four and a bit story's from the ground, yet we still get issues with smoke when lighting the fire.

    We used to have two multifuel stoves, one on the ground floor and one in the middle floor living room. The middle floor one has been replaced by a gas stove that looks like a wood burner. It's so nice to just click a switch to put the fire on instead of chopping up wood, lugging it through the house, lugging ashpans back through the house and having the associated ash and bits of wood splinters and sawdust everywhere. I'm sure the air is cleaner too with the much fewer dangerous particulates from gas than from wood smoke. We're now considering whether to keep the downstairs stove. They look great, but the faff of wood deliveries or wood chopping, cleaning the grate, chimney sweeping and then actually lighting the fire makes you wonder if it's worth it. Especially if you just build it up and then pop out for a fewf hours and return home to a fire that's burned out so you have to start again.
    A good quality wood stove, made of generous cast iron sections, should be able to be run hot and clean, and then act as a storage heater, before re-firing.
    Our 5kW Morso, running on conifer logs, can be left for hours, before easily re-kindling from the embers, essentially if the fuel is warm, i.e. stored beside the stove, and the stove is still even barely warm to the touch, re-kindling only requires a few finer/splinterer/rough split/fiberous sticks to be easily re-kindled under these circumstances, a handful of scrunched up newspaper or corroguated cardboard might be required at worst.
    Not that it is in any way hard to light from cold, IF the fuel has been in at least overnight,
    there is a noticable difference in speed of ignition if the sticks are brought in fresh, despite being bone dry in an airy shed outside.
    the 5kW is heating about 30m2 of fully glazed garden room, and can, with Feb or March's low Sun, easily bring the room to 30 deg Celcius by late afternoon/early evening, without particularly overfiring.
    As for the other comments. We've got a Morso Squirrel - 4kW. It easily heats a living room 9m x 4m, in a reasonably well insulated 1920's detached house. We only run it a) Cold winter weekends when its below 5C. and b) Cool Evenings in May/Sept/Oct when the heating is off.

    I'd run the flue out the wall, with a sweeping point on the outside, personally. Makes sweeping dead easy.
    • CommentAuthorHollyBush
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
    With hindsight I would do this:

    Posted By: dimengineerI'd run the flue out the wall, with a sweeping point on the outside, personally. Makes sweeping dead easy.
    We had a 17C cottage (Converted cart shed) and put a Morso Squirrel in. The flue went straight out the wall and up. On the outside the flue was double skinned and had a swept tee, with a drop down to a sweeping point. So you could just open up the hatch at the bottom and look striaght up the flue. Easy peasy lemon squeezy
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeApr 12th 2018
    Thanks everyone for the info.

    I need to do a bit more research when i get the time, but will be making notes from what you have all written.

    I will update in the next few weeks when i get a bit more time to really have a read and speak to a few retailers.
    • CommentAuthorandyman99
    • CommentTime5 days ago edited
    Also looking at WBS's. Came across this site


    Lots of practical information, select the DIY tab. I have no affiliation!
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