Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)

Categories



Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.
Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!


powered by Surfing Waves




Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
 Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.




General: Fixing stuff to EWI

Bottom of Page

1 to 7 of 7

  1.  
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
     
    It's been a few years since this topic has cropped up (I think). I will have 200mm of EPS with a thin coat render.

    I must fix my downpipes to the walls.

    I would like to fix outside taps to the walls.

    I may need to fix fence panels to the walls.

    There are various options - from home developed timber (or reclamed plastic timber substitute) blocks under the render to be screwed into later - to heavy duty manufactured items listed at the end of this document ...
    https://spsenvirowall.co.uk/assets/technical-resources/331-SPS-Envirowall-Fixing-Brochure.pdf

    Which route would you recommend?
  2.  
    What I have used is a piece of hard wood suitably finished fixed to the outside of the EWI with long screws through to the wall (the hammer in type with full length plastic plugs). This gives the advantage of the fixing to the wall/EWI being independent from the load and provides a spreader for the fixing screws.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2018
     
    The downpipes and probably the taps can be secured using the spiral anchors. Or maybe dart anchors for taps. I would try to avoid fastening the fence to the wall. Wind loads, impact loads, people climbing up the fence etc can all impose quite high loads. Just anchor the post in the ground near to the wall.

    Hardwood under the render is the traditional way, and we did that for our downpipes, with some foamed epoxy around it to spread the load a bit more. If you put screws into the render, remember to slant them upwards slightly so any water run back to the outside and seal them in place. (I didn't find any spirals when we did our downpipes)
  4.  
    Posted By: djhHardwood under the render is the traditional way,

    But then you need to know where you are going to be fixing stuff before you render
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeApr 12th 2018
     
    Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary
    Posted By: djhHardwood under the render is the traditional way,

    But then you need to know where you are going to be fixing stuff before you render

    Or use a traditional render that can be 'adjusted' after its first application :bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorgoodevans
    • CommentTimeApr 12th 2018
     
    Thanks all - those spiral anchors are more substantial than the pictures imply - - I was thinking chunky raul plugs - but no they are fat thumb size shanks.

    For both hardwood and the anchors it looks like the are best placed before the render goes on - marking the position with a screw. The darts seem more useful for post rendering fixes.
  7.  
    The hardwood pieces I have used have been post render, either painted or varnished as needed.

1 to 7 of 7

  1.  
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
 
Back to Discussions Top of Page
   
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   
Logout    

© Green Building Press