Fri, 08 May 2026 07:06:59 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268036#Comment_268036 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268036#Comment_268036 Thu, 03 May 2018 17:54:54 +0100 andyman99 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268038#Comment_268038 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268038#Comment_268038 Thu, 03 May 2018 18:06:03 +0100 tony
Top class tape and joint is common in the US a slurry coat is important to leave an even texture. Corner tapes are more tricky and generally substandard here.

Taping and jointing is done on taper edge plasterboard, skimming on square edge. No need for both, both are best with sticky mesh scrim tape.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268041#Comment_268041 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268041#Comment_268041 Thu, 03 May 2018 21:32:29 +0100 andyman99 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268043#Comment_268043 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268043#Comment_268043 Thu, 03 May 2018 21:57:00 +0100 Nick Parsons
I joint-fill because I can't plaster, but sometimes, if there's a bit of undulation, you end up more-or-less skimming with the joint filler, which is expensive!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268045#Comment_268045 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268045#Comment_268045 Thu, 03 May 2018 22:47:17 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary Posted By: tonyTaping and jointing is done on taper edge plasterboard, skimming on square edge. No need for both, both are best with sticky mesh scrim tape.
Over here no one skims. square edge PB has the joint filler feathered over about 15 -20 cm each side of the joint to make it invisible. Less than 15cm feathering also works but thats a cheaper (not so good) job. The filler comes in several grades but the usual one for jointing PB is designed for a thickness from 0 - 5mm]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268047#Comment_268047 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268047#Comment_268047 Fri, 04 May 2018 07:12:42 +0100 Fred56
The common defects are often due to poor practice in the boarding. Make sure the rules are followed around door openings particularly. You absolutely must use the correct drywall primer coat to get a uniform texture. Drywall primer is not contract emulsion contrary to popular opinion.

I can recommend a contractor in Darlington who is so good you would wonder why anyone wants to skim.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268060#Comment_268060 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268060#Comment_268060 Fri, 04 May 2018 16:48:15 +0100 Paul in Montreal Posted By: Fred56The common defects are often due to poor practice in the boarding. Make sure the rules are followed around door openings particularly. You absolutely must use the correct drywall primer coat to get a uniform texture. Drywall primer is not contract emulsion contrary to popular opinion.

Good point. The proper primer is almost all glue and no pigment - if you use a roller you can't tell the difference in texture between the plain paper sections and those with joint compound.

As Peter_in_Hungary mentioned, you still tape-and-joint square edges (you always have these on the short axis of the boards anyway). With the right feathering, these are essentially invisible. One trick is to use setting compound for the first couple of coats and then sandable drying compound for the final coat. If you're really good there's hardly any sanding required, but it's never zero, no matter how skilled.

Over here in Canada, no-one skims the entire boards.

Paul in Montreal.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268066#Comment_268066 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268066#Comment_268066 Sat, 05 May 2018 05:06:42 +0100 cjard
A plasterer, IME, would expect to see a plasterboarded wall, with electric accessory points made obvious and all drywall screws correctly flush or slightly subsurface

He will tape the joints (if he doesn't use tape, get another plasterer)

Tape and fill takes just as long as full skim by the time you've finished messing about with sanding and recoating so in theory the different is just the plaster price. When I as getting quotes, they were roughly the same price on a per job basis. Personally I'd go for full skin, and if you've got a lot of work, push for a per metre price. Anything less than a fiver a metre (materials excluded) is pretty good for one off builds site rates where there are acres of work are more like two quid a metre]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268098#Comment_268098 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268098#Comment_268098 Sun, 06 May 2018 23:12:45 +0100 Mike1 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268101#Comment_268101 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268101#Comment_268101 Mon, 07 May 2018 07:23:51 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268105#Comment_268105 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268105#Comment_268105 Mon, 07 May 2018 08:47:58 +0100 andyman99 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268109#Comment_268109 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268109#Comment_268109 Mon, 07 May 2018 11:08:11 +0100 marktime https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268111#Comment_268111 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268111#Comment_268111 Mon, 07 May 2018 12:12:27 +0100 Peter_in_Hungary Posted By: marktimeI finish off with a 50cm float so that and the primer yeilds invisible joins
Yes on square edge boards but IMO a 50cm float is not needed on taper edge boards]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268124#Comment_268124 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268124#Comment_268124 Mon, 07 May 2018 14:46:09 +0100 Paul in Montreal Posted By: Peter_in_HungaryYes on square edge boards but IMO a 50cm float is not needed on taper edge boards Even on square-edged boards a 50cm knife is a tad excessive. The pro-taping knives here have two sides - one is straight and the other is slightly curved to allow feathering. Most pros stick to 12" or 16" knives for the final feathering. That and judicious use of a "trouble light" (until you get skilled enough not to need one until the very end).

Another pro-tip if you want to do fast work - use a setting compound the sets in around 40 minutes. You can get the first couple of coats done all in one shot and then get the finish coat on the same day, ready for sanding/priming on day 2.

Paul in Montreal.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268129#Comment_268129 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268129#Comment_268129 Mon, 07 May 2018 17:18:15 +0100 marktime ]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268147#Comment_268147 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268147#Comment_268147 Tue, 08 May 2018 13:23:17 +0100 MarkyP https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268148#Comment_268148 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268148#Comment_268148 Tue, 08 May 2018 14:30:06 +0100 Paul in Montreal Posted By: MarkyPI would think that a typical 2 coat skim would improve both the fire and sound performance of the wall or ceiling relative to the same boards being only taped/jointed.

I doubt it to be honest. How thick is the skim? A couple of mm? If you want fireproof you use the right boards in the first place as far as I understand. Sound performance also - there's special types of drywall available such as QuietRock® ( https://www.quietrock.com/ )

Paul in Montreal.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268155#Comment_268155 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268155#Comment_268155 Tue, 08 May 2018 17:26:15 +0100 MarkyP
If you have a 60 min fire rated board and add 4mm of gypsum mass, I think the fire rating has to be improved. compare the fire performance of a 12.5mm and 15mm board.

agree you can achieve fire and sound ratings without skim using denser boards, but I'd bet all would do even better with a skim.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268172#Comment_268172 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268172#Comment_268172 Wed, 09 May 2018 10:52:38 +0100 lineweight https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268183#Comment_268183 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268183#Comment_268183 Wed, 09 May 2018 13:16:31 +0100 Paul in Montreal Posted By: MarkyPa standard 2 coat skim is typically 4mm in two passes. I reckon you'd be adding a 3 or 4 kg of mass per m2 based on a quick fag packet calc using typical plaster coverage, maybe 8 or 9kgs of mass added to the board overall. A 12.5mm board comes in at something like 23kg, so a very significant amount of additional mass is added with a skim. I think I read somewhere a 2dB sound reduction for 2mm of skim. Not sure if that scales in a linear way. But if you had a stud wall, both sides skimmed, you add around 8kg of mass per m2 and 8mm to the build up. if this achieved 4dB reduction then that would be significant based on typical system specs for the whole wall.

Smallest discernible difference in sound level is 6dB - so 4dB really makes no difference. That QuietRock product I mentioned achieves a 60dB reduction!

Paul in Montreal.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268233#Comment_268233 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268233#Comment_268233 Thu, 10 May 2018 22:28:31 +0100 Mike1 Posted By: lineweightTaped & jointed can be fine depending on circumstances. In some cases the imperfections will be more noticeable than others. For example, if it's a wall that will be washed downwards with lighting that's close to the wall, then any deviations from perfect flatness will be much more noticeable than on a wall that's lit in a more horizontal direction.
Yes, it's illumination that often makes joints noticeable - but that can include horizontal light from a window too, especially when looking along a wall from a doorway towards the light.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268245#Comment_268245 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15710&Focus=268245#Comment_268245 Fri, 11 May 2018 16:42:42 +0100 DarylP ]]>