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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

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    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2018
     
    What ho one and all,

    I have a few settlement cracks, mainly on the wall / ceiling joint. The house is t/f and the walls / ceiling are Fermacell and plasterboard painted with standard emulsion.

    My plan is to fill the cracks then tape with paper board joint tape, fill, blend in and paint. I intend to use normal wall paper paste to fix the paper tape.

    I assume that the paste will adhere to the existing emulsion without any problems? Should I abrade the taping area to give better adhesion or not bother? What about cutting back to the Fermacell board itself? That would be a lot of work but presumably give a stronger joint?

    Thanks and toodle pip

    Rex
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2018
     
    I think shrinkage cracks, I would wait til two years have passed, I would use easyfill a jointing compound product ro both fill cracks and adhere tape and for feathering in.

    Alternatives are trims, coving or caulk.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2018 edited
     
    Quite a few more than two years already. The cracks are generally, quite minor and I have filled in the past, but not raked out as I did not want to make them larger.

    But they have reappeared; hence the thought of using paper tape. I did not put the plasterboard ceiling up, so have not used tape, myself. Since I would be gluing the tape to the already finished wall, I am trying to keep the 'fix' as thin as possible and then, of course, feather in with jointing compound.

    I have some Fermacell Fine Surface Treatment so would use that. Just not so sure how it will bond onto an emulsion surface. Hence, should I abrade first?

    Coving and trims are out of the question. Don't like coving and don't have any in the house.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2018
     
    For our internal cracks, I'm planning to wait until we've been in for five years and then fill with a flexible caulk and paint over as part of a general touch up of the internal paintwork.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2018
     
    I would try some in cupboards or WC first, decorators caulk sounds to me like it would work, I would gently and lightly rake out first, I would not use wall paper paste.
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2018
     
    Second Tony - rake out to give a clean line, then a good quality decorators chaulk. I have the same issue in our 3 year old TF walls and it's about time to sort them. Won't touch paper tape, such a pain to feather in and the dust would not be appreciated!!

    To be fair you will always get movement in a timber frame - during this weather it must be at it's smallest and when it rains it will expand - a flexible chaulk will accommodate these changes for the next few years!
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2018
     
    Gentlemen,

    Thanks for your comments.

    All the Fermacell was installed with the Fermacell Joint Stick; joints not taped. Where there is some cracking (only in a very few places) I have no problem raking out the crack and filling, but presumably if there is a crack, the two boards are no longer edge joined?

    Surely taping over the crack would provide some reinforcement even at the risk of more work and dust?
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2018
     
    I have a few settlement cracks, mainly on the wall / ceiling joint.


    Just about every house I've ever seen has these. Annoyingly they can occur a few inches below the wall ceiling joint. It's as if the ceiling shrinks and pulls plaster off the walls. You would think the building trade would come up with a solution to this as they must spend a fortune fixing the problem on new houses.

    I've always bashed out loose bits and used ready mixed plaster to repair the holes (not filler).
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2018
     
    Posted By: CWattersI've always bashed out loose bits and used ready mixed plaster to repair the holes (not filler).

    Is there any advantage to using plaster rather than a flexible filler?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2018
     
    We used not to nail the edge 250mm of ceilings then the scrim tape or gravity stops cracking, easy 🙂
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 15th 2018
     
    Gentlemen, again, thanks for your thoughts.

    Am I correct in thinking that some of the replies relate to a plastered wall with shrinkage cracks? I have not plaster in the house, it is all dry-lining with Fermacell or plasterboard ceilings, and even that is not plastered.

    It does occur to me, that we dry-lined the walls first, then fitting the plasterboard ceiling. Surely with a t/f construction, fitting the plasterboard ceiling first, then pushing the dry-lining wall boards up to the ceiling, would prevent any shrinkage cracks?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 15th 2018
     
    Not that simple, wood shrinks warps and trusts so can open up unexpected cracks.

    Best is ceilings first but cracking can be a problem, corner tapes can help
    • CommentAuthorCerisy
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2018
     
    Sorry Rex - we're in France and it's all jointed plasterboard. Almost impossible to avoid shrinkage cracks.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2018 edited
     
    Can someone recommend a high quality decorator's caulk? I've never found one that doesn't crack, split or unstick (given movement). They don't seem to have any give. Maybe it's the application more than the product!
    • CommentAuthorMarkyP
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2018
     
    I used Nemesis fire rated hybrid sealant to caulk the joints between the cement boards I used to line my fireplace opening. It claims to accommodate movement of 25% and to be highly flexible. It is also over paintable. No cracks so far in what must be joints subject to a good deal of thermal expansion/contraction given the situation around the stove. I'm going to give it a try on some wall/ceiling cracks next time I decorate.
    • CommentAuthorgravelld
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2018
     
    Sounds good. I read decorator's caulk as a synonym for acrylic sealant, but I suppose if it's over-paintable it checks most boxes for decorating...
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 18th 2018
     
    I have been testing wallpaper paste and 10% water / PVA solution with paper tape on some emulsion walls with settlement cracks in the garage.

    Wallpaper paste, after 24 hrs, I can pull it off relatively cleanly. PVA, stuck like the proverbial.

    So I now know the direction to go.
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