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			<title>Green Building Forum - ceiling insulation</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Wed, 10 Jun 2026 11:00:38 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269696#Comment_269696</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Aug 2018 15:51:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>andylebalcon</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi All<br />Would appreciate input from all.<br />We are renovating an old farmhouse that predominantly has no insulation or heating.<br />So far we have insulated between ceiling joists in various rooms where we can take up loft boards and stuff sheepswool between.<br />Over our dining room however it is difficult to do this.<br />i attach a detail cross section of ceiling construction.<br />Above is a very large windy, unventilated loft, which we would like to use in spring and autumn (unheated/uninsulated) for yoga/spare bunkroom and the like.<br />In the dining room we wish to keep the feel/look of the room with the white soffit between dark chestnut beams.<br />So I'm looking for a insulating board that can be cut specifically to each gap fixed to underside of deck and then lined with heavy duty lining paper and painted.<br />At 40mm thick (or so) it will improve a great deal the insulation and we can retain the very  nice cherry boards above intact.<br />I have considered at length taking these up, but after various thoughts and investigations and experience am unlikely to be persuaded otherwise!<br />Any and all suggestions very welcome<br />Cheers<br />Andy<br />bty I have considered aerogel but after gaining a quote I'm looking for something much cheaper.<br />-]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269701#Comment_269701</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Aug 2018 16:48:58 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Nick Parsons</author>
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			<![CDATA[I have just done a similar thing with Diffutherm wood-fibre boards between joists (other boards are available, cheaper), screwed up to the floorboards, meshed and lime plastered. Nothing like as good as Aerogel, or even Pu/PIR, but significantly better than nothing.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269769#Comment_269769</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2018 16:18:47 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>andylebalcon</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi Nick<br />Thanks for that suggestion, I've looked into those now and  whilst almost ideal they are slightly thicker than I would like and have t&G edges, plus overall size might create a bit of waste.<br />Despite all this would you say they could be papered over?<br />Not looking for a fine finish, all surfaces in room quite rustic!<br />Thanks<br />Andy]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269770#Comment_269770</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2018 16:50:34 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Nick Parsons</author>
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			<![CDATA[Hi Andy,<br /><br />You said you were looking for a thickness of around 40mm. I used 40mm Diffutherm reveal board, which is not T&G. It's about 600 x 1200, and strangely, if I remember rightly, the 20mm version is  600 x 1100.<br /><br />I doubt you could paper it, though!]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269831#Comment_269831</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Aug 2018 19:02:16 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Rex</author>
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			<![CDATA[Why not fill the entire 150mm with insulation.<br /><br />My house is a new build, timber frame and insulated with Warmcel.  For the ceilings, I stapled the paper scrim, supplied by the Warmcel guys across the joists.  Then they came in and blew the insulation into the space.  Later, plaster boarded over.  Full insulation, loads of sound deadening.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269834#Comment_269834</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Aug 2018 10:55:59 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
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			<![CDATA[For a not dissimilar job, I used ordinary plasterboard carefully cut to shape. I then laid it on the bench and stuck Styrofoam to the back with spray adhesive, then screw fixed. You can choose the Styrofoam thickness to suit. <br />Careful "Foam gun,- fine nozzle" foam-filling around the edges and then the choice of finish is up to you, - plaster, standard or heavy duty or even themo-lining paper, and then emulsion finish.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269883#Comment_269883</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:05:46 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>andylebalcon</author>
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			<![CDATA[thanks guys but not quite what I was hoping for<br />ideally want a woodfibre board capable of being papered, perhaps it doesn't exist!<br />I'll keep hunting<br />Cheers]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269884#Comment_269884</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 11:34:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>owlman</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Square edged woodfibre boards are readily available. You'd most likely have to prime paint it first, then use a good heavy duty, ( best is ready mixed ), wallpaper adhesive. Getting a nice tight fit between the joists will be the hard bit.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=269887#Comment_269887</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2018 18:16:38 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>Nick Parsons</author>
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			<![CDATA[I screwed wood-fibre up into the floorboards (and just occasionally, in bare feet, I find one of the few which peeked through!), and filled any gaps with wood-fibre droppings mixed with water. I did plaster, but mix in a little wall-paper paste and it'll be fine, I expect.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307731#Comment_307731</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Feb 2025 21:25:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Jonti</author>
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			<![CDATA[Can't manage to start a new topic so have had to hijack and old one so apologies about that.<br /><br /><br />The son of a good friend is currently extending the back of his house. As part of this the ceilings will be insulated. His architect's plans have a rolled insulation between that ceiling joists with solid sheet insulation (Kingspan style) under the joists. Then 2&quot;x2&quot; used to create a service void to which plaster board will be attached.<br /><br />What would be the best way to attach the plasterboard, 2x2, and sheet insulation to the joists with minimal thermal bridging?]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307735#Comment_307735</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Feb 2025 08:31:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>sgt_woulds</author>
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			<![CDATA[You won't find any manufacturers that will certify their woodfibre boards for direct papering or painting as this won't meet the spread of flame requirements of building regs.<br /><br />Woodfibre is generally Fire Reaction Class E; used in a certified system behind a render or plaster it can achieve a B-s1,d0 classification for both internal and external use.  <br /><br />This is a classification of the render system; depending on which system is used the manufacturer can provide the relevant data.<br /><br />I cannot open or download documents from this site so I don't know what your construction is, but if you have floorboards above, why not lay woodfibre boards on top?  These can be found in high enough densities to take light foot traffic and storage.  A thin layer of hardwood-faced ply on top could be waxed to create a nice surface for your Yoga sessions.<br /><br />I've used 5mm ply over woodfibre, (and over xps overfloor UFH boards) without issues for a few years now.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307739#Comment_307739</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Feb 2025 09:57:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[The extension sounds like a single story with a flat or minimal slope roof. <br /><br />I would fix the insulation to the joists with screws which could be removed once the 2x2s are in place. I would also foam between the insulation boards. Fix the 2x2s through the insulation to the joists with good sized screws spaced so as to match the PB board size (to minimise cutting) (I would also use EPS rather than Kingspan)<br /><br />You don't mention a VCL - this will be needed if it is a flat roof. To maintain the integrity of the VCL it should be placed between the board insulation and the 2x2s.  If you are hoping the Kingspan will act as the VCL then very close attention need to be paid  to the joints. I don't trust sticky tapes to stand the test of time.<br /><br />Put cabling in the service void before the PB goes up. Easy if it is a DIY job, otherwise trades people need to be time managed - which they don't like if they are not the same firm.<br /><br />I wouldn't worry about the cold bridge of the screws holding the 2x2s through the insulation]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307740#Comment_307740</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Feb 2025 12:10:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WillInAberdeen</author>
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			<![CDATA[Consider filling the service void with quilt insulation, after the cabling has been done. Then you won't need to use such thick rigid insulation boards, and then the screws can be shorter. Empty service voids are a conduit for drafts and mice and noises ime.<br /><br />There is a limit to how much insulation you can put on the inside of the VCL without condensation (ask the architect) but using wood fibre quilt helps buffer moisture and heat.<br /><br />Quilt needs some temp support between battens so it doesn't fall out until the pb is put on.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307742#Comment_307742</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Feb 2025 19:18:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>Consider filling the service void with quilt insulation, after the cabling has been done. Then you won't need to use such thick rigid insulation boards, and then the screws can be shorter. Empty service voids are a conduit for drafts and mice and noises ime.</blockquote><br />Which will need any power cables to be de-rated. If the cables are put on the underside of the insulation then the  de-rating required is less severe. (Insulation on one side only).<br />In either case this results in the loss of a service void the advantage of which is the ease future changes. Although I take the point about <br /><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>Empty service voids are a conduit for drafts and mice and noises</blockquote><br />And then again how often are changes to wiring needed?]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307746#Comment_307746</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 11:40:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WillInAberdeen</author>
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			<![CDATA[It's no problem derating lighting circuits (the ones in ceilings) - you can run a lot of lights with 1A these days!]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307747#Comment_307747</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 12:25:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>It's no problem derating lighting circuits (the ones in ceilings) - you can run a lot of lights with 1A these days!</blockquote><br />Correct<br />But it is when power circuits are run across the ceiling or worse when the upstairs electric shower cable uses the service void as a convenient route that problems arise.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307748#Comment_307748</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 15:14:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary</cite><blockquote ><cite >Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>It's no problem derating lighting circuits (the ones in ceilings) - you can run a lot of lights with 1A these days!</blockquote><br />Correct<br />But it is when power circuits are run across the ceiling or worse when the upstairs electric shower cable uses the service void as a convenient route that problems arise.</blockquote>Indeed, all the circuits of whatever type run in our first-floor joist void, since that's the only available horizontal space in our house. (no loft and solid slab ground floor) But they don't run within (noise) insulation. Vertical drops are fastened to timber studs.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 16:18:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>GreenPaddy</author>
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			<![CDATA[as mentioned above, use temporary nails/screws to hold the rigid insul, then remove once battens fixed in place. Also, foam the edges ad joints of the rigid boards.<br /><br />Not sure why a 2"x2" is spec'd. Unless there's a very particular need for a large cavity, use 25mm thick timber. I tend to use 100x25 rather than 50x25, as it gives a much better chance of securely catching the plasterboard with p/brd screws. With 50mm batten, often only 45mm, shared between two boards, that's 22mm each. You don't need to be out by much on the batten spacing to not have adequate edge cover for the screws.<br />Even in walls, 25mm spacing is usually adequate for cabling, as a fast fix back box is 35mm (25mm plus plasterboard gives 37-40mm).<br /><br />U valuve calcs including the 25mm unventilated air cavity with a low emisivity surface (foil), will give a lift to the total Uvalue, and help mitigate there not being insulation in that small cavity, which you want to keep clear for cabling in the future.<br /><br />Presumably the arch will provide condensation calcs if it's a flat roof, unless it's very well ventilated above the insulation, as it would otherwise be a cold roof, which is likely to trap moisture, even with high quality VCL membranes. It's a really important detail, not just perfectionism.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307750#Comment_307750</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 19:42:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: GreenPaddy</cite>Presumably the arch will provide condensation calcs if it's a flat roof, unless it's very well ventilated above the insulation, as it would otherwise be a cold roof, which is likely to trap moisture, even with high quality VCL membranes. It's a really important detail, not just perfectionism.</blockquote>There's a lot we don't know about Jonti's friend's son's roof <img src="/newforum/extensions/Vanillacons/smilies/standard/bigsmile.gif" alt=":bigsmile:" title=":bigsmile:" /> but indeed the ventilation above the the insulation is very important, if it is a single storey extension.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307751#Comment_307751</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 20:25:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Jonti</author>
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			<![CDATA[Thanks for the replies.<br /><br />I don't know why 2&quot;x2&quot; was is specified for the ceiling void. I will ask. Ditto with the walls if that is the case.<br /><br />I believe the sheet insulation is to be foil backed and this will create the vapour barrier.<br /><br />It is a single storey extension and my understanding is that it is a cold roof which has been stipulated by building control as the existing roof is a cold roof.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307752#Comment_307752</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Feb 2025 01:44:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>djh</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: Jonti</cite>I believe the sheet insulation is to be foil backed and this will create the vapour barrier.</blockquote>As long as the foil is pristine and undamaged ... and the joints are taped with proper (expensive!) airtightness/VCL tape.<br /><br /><blockquote >It is a single storey extension and my understanding is that it is a cold roof which has been stipulated by building control as the existing roof is a cold roof.</blockquote>If it was me, I'd double check the ventilation arrangements under the top deck. It is very important.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307753#Comment_307753</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Feb 2025 23:41:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>WillInAberdeen</author>
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			<![CDATA[Just a reminder that cables in service cavities need to be derated, whether or not there's insulation in the cavity. This has changed quite a bit in the current edition of wiring regs so may be different from previous experiences.<br /><br />The cable rating is based on it being 'clipped direct' to a wall, so cool air can freely rise up past it to carry away the heat. (Ref Method C in the regs) <br /><br />If instead it is run in a service cavity across the ceiling then that air cannot circulate freely, and heat cannot rise away because of the insulation above, so the only heat sink is through the plasterboard down into the room (Ref Method 101).<br /><br />So it can carry less current - see eg<br /><br /> <a href="https://www.elandcables.com/media/3hoka0mu/table-4d5.pdf" target="_self" rel="nofollow">https://www.elandcables.com/media/3hoka0mu/table-4d5.pdf</a><br /><br />Is why power circuits are preferably run in walls/floors rather than ceilings. Doesn't matter for lighting, as the currents are very low these days. <br /><br /><br />Cold flat roofs are banned in Scottish building standards.<br /><br />45x45 battens would need less frequent fixings than 22mm, which could be a good saving, those long screws are £1 each.]]>
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		<title>ceiling insulation</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15826&amp;Focus=307754#Comment_307754</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Feb 2025 09:22:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<author>Peter_in_Hungary</author>
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			<![CDATA[<blockquote ><cite >Posted By: WillInAberdeen</cite>45x45 battens would need less frequent fixings than 22mm, which could be a good saving, those long screws are £1 each.</blockquote><br />Ouch - e.g. over here 6mm x 140 wood screws are 16p each by the box and 6 x 200 are 36p each.]]>
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