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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorlsx
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2018 edited

    A few months ago the original water main (2" cast iron pipe) decided to spring a leak in the cavity wall of the late-victorian terrace I'm currently renovating.

    The house has a full length cellar so the supply pipe runs under the front garden at a depth of 80cm just before it goes through the outer wall and emerges from the inner wall about 50cm above the cellar floor.

    I replaced the old pipe with 32mm MDPE running through a 110mm soil pipe liner and fashioned a long bend in the soil pipe to convert from running horizontal to vertical on the inside. I used 32mm MDPE because none of the rubber seals I could find to fit into the ends of the 110mm duct reduced down to 25mm only to 32mm or 40mm. The flow is great from it, I filled a 14l bucket in less than 7 seconds!!

    Now I'm trying to fix the MDPE to the internal pipework, but the pipe has so much strength that I'm having no success fastening it up to the wall within 20cm to 30cm of where it emerges. Is there a knack to working & bending this pipe?

    Am beginning to think I should ditch the long bend idea and try something else like converting to 25mm MDPE in the cavity and then using a 25mm MDPE wall plate.

    Any ideas or advice would be more than appreciated.
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2018
    Apart from the obvious suggestion of using an elbow and/or adapter instead of bending the pipe, all I can think is that maybe heating the pipe (empty of water) might soften it enough to bend it and clamp it in place.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2018
    A couple of these Munsen rings may work, and a bit of mild heat as Dave suggests. It's always a problem with coiled plastic pipe.

    • CommentAuthorbhommels
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2018
    to retain the MDPE I screwed a bit of marine ply to the wall, and fixed a couple of jubilee clips to that to hold the pipe. 20cm between the clips turned out to work well, fixing down the pipe in the right spot and keeping it straight. Although heating the pipe crossed my mind I did not trust myself in getting it right, more so as there was no way to drain the MDPE.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2018
    Does it need to be tight against the wall? Perhaps just fix a larger block of wood to the wall then the pipe clamp.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 3rd 2018
    I think you can get a rubber seal with the 38mm hole offset to one side of the 110mm.
    • CommentAuthorlsx
    • CommentTimeOct 4th 2018 edited
    Thanks for the replies.

    In the end I've gone for a reducing elbow (to fit as the MDPE emerges from the wall) made up of a 32mm to 1" BSP female elbow, a 1" BSP male to 25mm coupler and a 22mm copper adaptor in the 25mm coupler to go straight to copper after the fitting.

    I wanted to avoid having a fitting before the stopcock just in case of a leak from it. I also really liked the massiveness of the 32mm brass stopcock I've been using as a temporary stop end, but that excitement has now passed.

    Hopefully I'll gain at least 30cm of vertical space on the wall over staying in MDPE until the stopcock.
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