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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorretrofrit
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2018
     
    I have a 50 sq m shed I want to insulate as cheaply as possible, it has a concrete floor, thin t & g cladding walls, and a profiled plastic coated steel pitched roof. The plan is to lay an 18 mm osb floor onto treated timber 47 x 75mm & press fit 50 mm EPS in between. The same for the walls with 11mm board and the ceiling with 9 mm board and 75 mm EPS as the rafters are 100mm.

    Assuming the above is ok, my question is can I do without breather membrane as there will be a gap between the cladding and the insulation, and also do without a vapour control layer as I intend to seal the OSB joints.

    My apologies for my query basically being one of corner cutting, I've only a four year lease and its only going to have occasional use - part workshop, part showroom.
    Thanks
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2018
     
    I would go floating floor using t &g chipboard. 9mm on the ceiling will bow and undulate.

    On the walls the osb is likely not to remain straight. Very thin poly vb every for me.
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeDec 5th 2018
     
    Assuming the wall insulation is getting pushed against the t+g, any water penetration will just sit there rotting the wood?? Might last 4 years but landlord might not be too impressed if its started rotting!
  1.  
    Wot philedge said. but if the insulation is thin enough to leave a (drainage) gap between the insulation and the T&G then it should be OK.
    I would suggest putting your plans to the landlord and get him to sign them off - yes in writing. Then do your plan. Your lease will (should) say what you can do by way of alterations and this would count as something for which the LL should give permission. By getting the LL to sign off the plan you essentially pass the buck (IMO)

    Wot tony said about the 9mm osb sagging depending upon the rafter spacing but this can be mitigated by putting counter battens on the inside of the osb which might be cheaper than thicker osb.
    • CommentAuthorretrofrit
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2018
     
    Many thanks all, I did wonder about using 9 mm board on the ceiling as the max rafter centre is 670 mm, so its either battened, 11mm OSB, or plywood which clearly is lighter and easier, any steer on minimum thickness, 6 mm ok ?

    I wasn't just opting for OSB on price I quite like the textured finish,happy to have ply on the ceiling, maybe I ought to go with 18 mm for the walls, centres are 645 mm. There will be a 25 mm air gap between the insulation and the t & g cladding, I've had no problems with damp or penetration apart from massive amounts of snow blown up and in last winter, I've since filled the roofing profiles with matching foam strip.

    Will ask the Landlord's agent to sign off the plan, their attitude is that the shed is such a state that anything I do should be an improvement, especially if it's at my expense, but obviously I'd rather do a decent job and appearance is important.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeDec 12th 2018 edited
     
    Just a heads up...

    https://www.labc.co.uk/news/fitting-out-shop-unit-when-do-you-need-make-building-regulations-application?language_content_entity=en

    "Works that need permission include any works that involve installing or making material alterations to controlled services or fittings, such as drainage, plumbing, boilers, air conditioning and electrics, changing the use of a building, _insulating_ or underpinning the building and any structural work."
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