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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorandyman99
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2019 edited
     
    The slab was poured the 1st week of September and although it was a pretty dry late summer, there was very heavy rain at then end of October before the roof was on. The roof went on 1st week November and windows in 1st week December. Again there was driving rain just before the windows went in.
    I enclose some pictures to show the installation steps.
    We installed a floating floor just before Xmas in the front bedroom. At the time, the edges of the floor did look slightly darker than the rest of the floor as if they hadn’t dried out completely.
    EWI was installed either side of Xmas.


    Now the issue, there’s sign of damp/mould on the lower row of blocks, and the DPC shows some condensation where I can see it. I’m hoping this is just the building drying out but I’m not sure?
      IMG_3157.jpeg
      IMG_2881.jpeg
      IMG_2913.jpeg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2019 edited
     
    Yes and it will collect moisture from the house if it is cooler than the house, keep it well ventilated, I will take a few months to fully dry out
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2019
     
    If youve installed a floating floor over a damp slab its going to take a very long time to dry if youve got a moisture barrier under the floating floor.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 19th 2019
     
    Yes but as it will dry out very slowly it will only release moisture very slowly and this should not be a problem, indeed most of the drying will happen through the sub structure.
    • CommentAuthorandyman99
    • CommentTimeJan 20th 2019
     
    OK thanks. Matters were made worse over Xmas as the windows were all taped and sealed for rendering. I will ventilate/de-humidify as much as possible. Humidity levels in the rooms have come down from high 70% to mid 60% (19 degrees) but are still higher than the rest of the house. There is now heat in the rooms (radiators). Would it make sense to add some extra heat at low level (blower heater)?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 20th 2019
     
    Posted By: andyman99There is now heat in the rooms (radiators). Would it make sense to add some extra heat at low level (blower heater)?

    Given the radiators are on, I wouldn't bother with additional heaters, but a fan to stir the air around (or a blower heater on cold) would probably be worth while. And open the windows for a few hours a day in total at least.
    • CommentAuthorSprocket
    • CommentTimeJan 23rd 2019 edited
     
    It is the worst time of year to be trying to dry out walls and floors.
    Open windows and wind are your best bet IMHO.

    The rads will help evaporate water from the inside and circulate the air but it will still condense on cold windows.

    A blower heater won't help much.
    Do not even consider one with a propane burner - the extra water condensation from open flame would be v.bad.

    BIG dehumidifiers can help but they would have to run 24-7 and they consume a lot of power. Still not as good as an open window at each end and fresh air and maybe a *big* fan.
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