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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorrsk1
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2019
     
    I am insulating some solid brick external walls and weighing up whether to use insulated plasterboard, or PIR - battens - pl'bd.
    If using IP, how do get a vcl? And without a service void, where can you run electrics?

    Alternatively, and leaving aside the service void, could I fix PIR to the wall, tape joints to get a good vcl, then pva pl'd to the PIR, effectively making my own insulated pl'bd?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2019
     
    Not with pva but other glues ara available. Best avoid battens in my book. Chase wires into wall and bring them horizontal through the insulation.
  1.  
    I presume external insulation is not possible ??
    • CommentAuthorrsk1
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2019
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary</cite>I presume external insulation is not possible ??</blockquote>

    no
  2.  
    All except the most basic (EPS) ins'd plasterboards have a VCL, but it disappears at the joints. I like the warm batten version best. I have glued up my own ins'd plasterboards a long time ago. I used EVA and lots of weight. They are still there, and no mech fixings as was the norm in 1987!

    I suppose if you do glue your own you could cut a sliver off the plasterboard so it's smaller all round than the insulation board, then fix and tape, then glue in slivers of pl'bd. I'd go for 'raw' insulation and the warm batten method!
    • CommentAuthorgyrogear
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2019
     
    Posted By: Nick Parsonscut a sliver off the plasterboard so it's smaller all round than the insulation board


    I am thinking of doing the opposite - i.e. lay up the PB with insulation on the back (including incorporated airspace and radiant barrier) leaving an empty margin around the edge of the PB; then hard-fit the PB, then inject along the edges with expanding foam.

    I'd be interested for any feedback !

    gg
    • CommentAuthorandyman99
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2019
     
    Insulated plasterboard is quite expensive and one argument against using it is the cost of wastage with the inevitable off cuts
    • CommentAuthornplusone
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2019
     
    I've been considering using Gutex boards for internally insulating a brick wall (double skin with cavity). Can either plaster directly on top or use battens/plasterboard.
  3.  
    Hi N+1, how are you controlling water vapour? I'd understood that wood fibre boards work well on the inside of vapour permeable walls, but do you need to add a VCL when applying them to existing brick (plastered painted?)

    Also, what thickness of wood fibre boards are you using to meet/beat the building regs insulation value?

    We internally insulated some walls with deep (100mm) internal stud frame and PIR boards cut to fit tight between them, which was quite fiddly work and thermally bridged, foil plasterboard screwed to the studs. Next time I am looking at glueing whole foil PIR boards to the walls and glueing p'board on top. Working alone, I prefer to handle full size PIR boards but small size plasterboards, which also helps stop the joins lining up.

    The insulation board will continue through the ceiling/floor space above, and down to meet the floor insulation, but the p'board will not.

    Edit: I will clip the wires onto the masonry and carve out the back of the PIR to fit over them. I'm not into service cavities as a sage on here once said they allow spread of draughts mice and fires.
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