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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthoraclarky
    • CommentTimeApr 15th 2019

    any advice welcome -

    renovating a 1900's house in Glasgow, 600mm stone wall.

    the previous owners had 'damp proofed' but really they just diverted the damp to other areas. We are controlling the ingress but just taking the walls back to stone let them visibly dry out in a day.

    So I want breathable and was thinking of this make up:

    Stone wall - 100mm wood fibre insulation in stud - rigid wood fibre board - lime plaster - clay paint

    1- do I need a membrane in there? I really don't want to put in anything that may concentrate damp etc and if the wall does get damp I'll sort it outside etc. So long as the walls are dry ish will the damp not disperse in/out naturally

    2- any other tips that jump to anyones mind welcome.

    • CommentAuthorjfb
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2019
    I would be a little worried that there would be a danger of interstitial condensation in the insulation with that thickness of insulation. I have similar walls (though drier region) and went for : stone wall, lime render (as flattening layer and airtight layer) 60mm wood fibre board (fixed to wall with plastic pins), lime render, limewash. 20mm boards around window reveals. Airtight tapes embedded in backing render taped to windows/doors/joists. If possible make sure the woodfibre boards go all the way up the wall at ceiling level and is joined to too insulation.
    I also installed Mvhr (not knowing if it would strictly be necessary but I ended up with an air test of 1 ACH and anything better than 3 requires mechanical ventilation).

    It has worked very well for me - nice comfortable and dry environment. I had the advantage o taking the house back to a shell to do the work and maybe you don't. The backing layer online render is easier if you have relatively flat walls as you want to avoid voids behind the woodfibre board. But I think it is a better way to go than your plan.

    And just I be clear - no membrane in my build up!
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTime7 days ago
    You might find these interesting:

    Upgrading tenements to Passivhaus standard:

    (BTW, does anyone know if the any of the above work took place?)

    Internal wall insulation to tenements:

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