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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2019 edited
    I am still laying my new block paved drive, but am now thinking about making my new gates.

    The opening will be about 3.2m wide and i want to make the left side 2/3's wide and the right side a smaller 1/3 size. So this will be the actual main gate which we use most days. Behind the larger section will sit our bins.

    I have an oak post set in the ground on the left and i will be using an oak post screwed into the side of the house on the right side.

    I enclose a photo of a design for a gate which i like.

    I am not bothered about the framing on this gate, but i like the actual gates.

    Any idea what wood this is ?

    Are there any links on how to make this type of gate. I am assuming this is made using mortice and tenon joints.
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2019
    Posted By: marsadayAny idea what wood this is ?

    What country or even continent does it come from? A link to the original source might provide more hints. It looks like new wood though, so I wouldn't expect it to look like that for long.

    I'm no expert but I expect mortice and tenon joints would be fine. I expect there'll also be a diagonal piece on the reverse to prevent droop.

    Which way will the gates open? I'd normally expect the small gate to open inwards and by default the large gate would then also open inwards. But then it will complicate opening the gate if your bins are stored behind it.
    I was planning to make a gate but found that they are available online ready built, for less money than I was able to source the timber for. To be fair this was in treated softwood, I wasn't looking for hardwood.

    Some suppliers will build them to whatever width you specify.
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2019
    The photo is taken from pinterest and i think it is in the USA.

    The gate in front of the bin will open out i think and the smaller gate can open inwards.

    I need to go to my local timber merchant and see what wood i can buy.
    One approach used here to make drive gates is to use box section steel (e.g. 25mm x 75mm) welded up into a rectangle forming a stable structural base (with any additional steel framing needed to manage the chosen timber design) and then the decorative wooden facing applied to the outside. This avoids the need for timber joints and allows the use of softwood and gives a lighter (cheaper) gate. The rack part of the rack and pinion electric gate opening is fixed to the steel framework (for when we get fed up with getting wet opening and closing the gates)

    I have found that gateposts fixed to house walls quickly come loose with the stresses on the post by the gate action. IMO better to set the post in the ground as the primary fixing and then by all means attach the top of the post to the wall.
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2019
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2019 edited
    3.2M overall so roughly 2M and 1M. If you're looking at something about 1.2M high you're going to need strap hinges and your plan to have one out opening, and one inward opening could present problems. With normal hinges it'd look a bit odd with one set of hinges on the face side, and the other not. It may even be possible, with thought, to hinge the smaller gate off the bigger one, to create the one in one out effect.
    The joints would definitely have to be M&T and through tenoned and wedged at that IMO; sag can be a problem. Diagonal bracing on the back is the usual approach to mitigate that, a wheel on the big gate would help too, more esp. with the one in, one out opening, described above.
    The gate in the picture is lovely but I 'm guessing may be more suited to a drier climate than the UK, but not impossible to ape it with a few subtle mods but as djh pointed out one UK winter would ruin the "new" look so some form of treatment may be necessary.
    The wood in question could be clear Western Red Cedar or even select clear Redwood. There is some sapwood showing on the left hand gate rails so the species may be hard to pin down but I think Cedar is the best bet.

    P.S. My close boarded driveway gates hurriedly built 20 years ago; (Dogs), from clear untreated softwood and varnished are now looking sad and I'm using clear Siberian Larch as a replacement.
    • CommentAuthormarsaday
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2019
    Thanks for the info from everyone.

    The drive /patio is built around my gate area now, so no way can i retro fit a post in the ground so it will have to be bolted to the wall.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeMay 14th 2019
    Offer my bit as someone who has built gates. Not in any particular order.
    M&T joints definitely.
    Type 4 adhesive, waterproof pva won't last so pu construction, cascamite, or epoxy glue.
    Good wood if you want it to last, softwood Douglas fir painted not stained. if you want wood to be seen Sapele is a good choice and reasonably priced probably cheaper than Douglas fir. Issue is off course with any of these timbers you will need someone to plane and thickness the timber to your dimensions if you do not have the gear.Finish with a microporous stain or Teknos lacquer (My friend uses Sapele and Teknos for shop fronts, doors and windows and we are in an exposed part of the uk. If you want something lighter then western red cedar but not really good in areas likely to gets lots of knocks as in a gate as it is easily damaged.
    Pay great attention to drainage, design the construction so no water traps so if e.g you had a horizontal cross brace bevel the top edge so water drains off and cover any end grain. Bevel corners or make an arris so paint sticks other wise in time will get coating peeling off the corners.
    Don't worry about fixing post to wall providing wall is sound have not had any problems use chemical anchors or thunderbolts and make sure they are well in. Don't use screws and plugs unless you are in the size 10 mm plug area and use a galvanised coach screw suited to the plug
    Any bracing of the frame construction should be done with the brace in compression (steel gate bracing is in tension).

    Look up Taunton Fine Homebuilding website there should be countess examples there for design and construction techniques.

    Good luck
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeMay 15th 2019 edited
    If you make one like this...

    Posted By: marsaday
      gate.jpghttp:///newforum/extensions/InlineImages/image.php?AttachmentID=7288" >

    Make sure the vertical T&G boards aren't butted up tight. The T shouldn't be fully seated in the G. Otherwise when the wood expands the whole gate can bow.
    • CommentAuthorCliff Pope
    • CommentTimeMay 18th 2019
    You need some kind of stop on the ground, or users will try to open the gates the wrong way and strain the hinges.
    If the gates are heavy it is a good idea to have wedge stops in the centre and in the open position so that they are never strained, also an easy way of stopping an open gate moving about in a wind.

    It might be a good idea to set the gates back so that there is somewhere to stop the car while you open or close them.
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