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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorbaffled
    • CommentTimeJul 5th 2019
    A decorator has just spilled water in a number of places on my oiled engineered oak flooring. The water has penetrated and left a number of grey stains. I'd be very grateful for any experience of successful removal of such stains. Obviously, I want to avoid making things worse so I don't want to start applying hydrogen peroxide or any such remedies found from an internet search without advice. Thank you.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 5th 2019
    First things I guess; is how bad ? are they just spots or was it a large puddle? what finish is on the wood, e.g. oil or lacquer? is it natural oak or stained, was it just clean water or did it have detergent or something else in?

    Assuming just clean water on an oiled finish you may find that a gentle rub down with a fine abrasive paper and a new application of oil will solve the problem, - TEST A BIT FIRST. The grain may be raised hence the sandpaper but be careful and feather it out to the surrounding areas. If lots of spits and spots you may well be better incorporating the whole area with a light re-sand rather than each individual spot. Do this before resorting to wood bleachers like Oxalic acid.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 5th 2019
    What was it oiled with? Strongly recommend Osmo Hard wax oil. We spill stuff all the time on ours and it just wipes off. Even had beer and worse from teenage party on it.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 5th 2019
    I used to use oxalic acid to remove grey stains from the wooden frame of my Morris 1000 traveller. Has to be worth a try on an off-cut
    • CommentAuthorbaffled
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2019
    Thank you: very helpful. I'll need to contact the manufacturers (Bausen) to find out what it was oiled with. One stain is the size of a man's foot, the others range from half to a quarter of that size. Fortunately, I kept a few left-over pieces so I can experiment without creating more damage. I SUSPECT the decorator spilled wallpaper paste and then gave it a good old scrub to try to clean it off!
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 7th 2019
    Easiest form of oxalic acid though not pure is kettle descaler
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 8th 2019
    Most commercial wood flooring manufacturers offer a bewildering range of finishes. Not only surface coating finish; e.g. oil, soap, lacquer,-- one of many, waxes, etc. etc., but also treatment of the pre-finished wood itself. Brushed finish, sanded, a cross cut sawn look, plus various stains, etc., many of which are almost impossible to repair.
    The best wood floor IMO is a simple, non stained, sanded, natural board with an on-situ oil finish applied by the flooring contractor on completion. These can be most easily re-finished.
    I'm guessing your floor may be oiled or waxed as it stained so easily which may be good news. Had the floor been lacquered the water/paste would most likely have easily wiped off. If the boards have a brushed/textured finish you may have a problem, - sorry.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeJul 28th 2019
    Just goes to show you cannot trust anyone not to have an accident with something or another. I am surprised the decorator did not cover the floors first. When I had plasterers in I covered the floors with correx sheeting even though the floor was chipboard and was going to be later battened out for underfloor heating and engineered boards laid later. One has to think prevention all the time because some tradesmen don't know the meaning of the word
    Good luck on solving problem.( I bought my boards unfinished so had control over repair materials. Used Osmo poly X oil great stuff). Hopefully you can get an answer on what the finish is, that has to be your best bet. I would not go near bleaching the spots, it is another can of worms involving recolouring the stain to match up. That is a very skilled job. If you draw a blank w.r.t doing a DIY fix there are furniture finishers about think there are franchises specialising in this sort of work much as there is on repairing chips and dents on cars. think furniture medic rings a bell. Charge the cost to the decorator.
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