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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeAug 4th 2019 edited
     
    My kitchen (about 5m x 5m) has thin vinyl flooring laid directly onto floorboards. The vinyl has quite a few rips and holes due to being laid directly onto uneven floorboards.

    What's the best way to go about replacing this? My plan was to screw down the creaky / loose floorboards, maybe level some of them if possible, screw 6mm ply at 150mm centres and then lay new vinyl (or lino?) on top.

    I'll be covering over the drain valve for the combi boiler / heating system, not sure how best to leave access to that.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 4th 2019
     
    Move the plumbing possibly to outside then min 10mm ply, I would use 12mm tongued and grooved on all four edges, some do latex self levelling over the floorboards, not me though.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeAug 4th 2019
     
    For best results lift floorboards ( I assume T&G ), pit props to support joists and/or noggin them. Sort plumbing access with trapdoor or as tony says move outside. Relay boards, - using a board cramp, and then create a smooth finish with 12mm ply.
    Alternatively, depending on the state of the boards, ditch them and relay the whole with T&G spruce plywood flooring sheets 22mm if possible. then you can save the last stage above. Insulate whilst you're on with it.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeAug 4th 2019 edited
     
    Thank you, that's thicker ply than I was intending to go with, good to know. I hadn't considered putting the valve on the outside, it's a first floor flat though so you'd need a ladder to access the valve. I guess a hatch is the way forward. I think with vinyl/lino tiles (as opposed to a roll) this would be feasible.

    I will have to take the existing vinyl up and take a look at the floorboards. The cabinets will make lifting boards time consuming.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 4th 2019
     
    It might be possible to run the pipe to ground level hopefully
  1.  
    Coincidentally I was doing something similar today. The vinyl ran under the kitchen units, so I took the plinths off and cut it just under the units to roll it back, the joint will be hidden when I put the plinth back.

    We seem to have 3mm -ish hardboard staple-gunned onto the floorboards every 100mm round the edges of each sheet, roll vinyl on top, seems to work.

    I was lifting groups of three boards so I could pack insulation under them as far as I could reach with a prodder, then repeat

    You can add stubs of pipe from the CH, rising under the kitchen units, with drain valves for the separate flow and return pipework runs, siphon with a hose through the window to fully drain the system. Self cutting isolating valves may help.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeAug 4th 2019
     
    I guess hardboard is fine if the boards are flat enough, in my case I think I'd end up with a wave or two in the finished vinyl. I'm keen on tiles rather than a roll as I figure I can buy a few spare tiles and then replace sections if they get damaged.

    That is a good solution for draining the system. However, could I just fit a valve onto a radiator so I have a convenient way to drain the system? My flat is all on one level, the current drain valve under the floor is lower than a valve I could fit on a radiator would be, but then I could siphon it as you say. Is there something I'm missing?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeAug 5th 2019
     
    Removing kitchen base units is a bit of a pain when you think of removing thew contents etc.. With all the stuff out of the way and new materials and tools etc. on site ready you could have the cabinets out the floor up and replaced in a day or two, ready for your vinyl tiles.
    Personally I'd still prefer to put in a new thicker sheet ply floor, assuming you own the property. That way you can eliminate creaking, the wavy floor, and making a service hatch is easy. I've done that several times for my clients before tiling or laying hardwood flooring and although it sounds drastic it goes quite quickly.
  2.  
    Posted By: Rick_MI guess hardboard is fine if the boards are flat enough

    I wouldn't want hardboard in a kitchen - I'd want something a bit more resilient to water. Sooner or later a flood /spill will happen and you get water under the lino and problems will ensue.
    • CommentAuthorfinnian
    • CommentTimeAug 5th 2019
     
    We took up the floor and laid with 22mm tongue and groove spruce ply as above. Very solid, flat, and completely straightforward. Mark out any pipework as you go. We were planning to reuse the existing floorboards but failed to get them off cleanly.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeAug 5th 2019
     
    Thanks everyone.

    By the way Tony, did you mean 18mm t&g ply? I can't see any 12mm
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 5th 2019
     
    15, 18 is best but could a bit thick
  3.  
    1st floor of London terraces I've laid amtico (when it's been on offer), Karndean and Marmoleum in about 6 rooms over the years (bathrooms and kitchens). We fixed down existing boards and then used 6mm ply over the top screwed down with 'feather finish' over the screw heads and junctions.

    It was fine and was still looking good when we left the properties 5+ years after laying. It might not be completely flat (likely then house isn't level) but it won't have any sharp changes in level that will show through the tiles.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeAug 7th 2019
     
    I wonder if putting the old lino under the new ply would help with minor differences in the boards (assuming I don't get them perfectly flat) or if that's a bad idea?

    I can temporarily remove most of the kitchen floor units to make levelling floorboards easier but I don't think I'll be removing all of them.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeAug 7th 2019
     
    Bad idea.
    • CommentAuthorRick_M
    • CommentTimeAug 8th 2019
     
    ok :smile:
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