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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorYalch
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2019
    Hi I have a Subfloor, in our groundfloor kitchen, which is made up of joists, groved chipboard (http://tiny.cc/36qnfz) and spreader plates with ufh pipes running though.

    We have now decided to tile this floor and I was wondering what the best way to do this would be?

    A couple of options I've heard are:

    1. Adheisive direct to the spreaderplates/pipes and then the tile onto that.
    2. Backerboard of some sort (maybe ply) and then adheisive/tile
    3. Adheisive direct to the spreaderplates/pipes and then an uncoupling/decoupling membrade, then adheisive,then tile.

    Thanks in advance :)
    It is often the case that good information comes from the manufacturers !
    From the Prowarm site you linked there is an installation PDF file which states at item 15

    For other floor finishes, such as Tiles, Vinyl or Carpet, the floor must be covered with a cement board of a minimum 10mm thickness, such as ‘No More Ply’ or ‘Hardy Backer Boards’. Alternatively, a 6mm WBP plywood can be used. The overlay boards/ plywood must be screwed down at every 150mm centres.

    So I would suggest an overlay of cement board then tile straight on to that using a flexible tile adhesive
    • CommentAuthorYalch
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2019
    Good spot, don't know how I missed that.
    Thanks for pointing it out though :)

    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2019
    6mm WBP over grooved chipboard? Would that really be rigid enough for tiles?

    They say you can tile directly over chipboard here..


    ..but I have my doubts. They say you need an "ultra flexible adhesive" and I wonder the grout doesn't crack.

    I think 12mm Hardibacker board would be a better bet and use a flexible tile adhesive.

    Better still if you are using a professional tiler get him to recommend a solution that he's prepared to warranty.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2019
    Sites like the above aren't very consistent with their advice. Elsewhere on same site it says..


    "For overboarding a flooring substrate, you can either use tile backer board to a minimum thickness of 6mm or WBP exterior grade plywood to a minimum thickness of 15mm.

    This choice is mainly down to personal preference and also depending on how much you want to raise the floor level by."
    • CommentAuthorborpin
    • CommentTimeNov 12th 2019
    My advice - don't!

    If you jump up and down slightly, if the floor flexes at all, then the tiles will not last.
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