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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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      CommentAuthorjonharris
    • CommentTimeJan 4th 2020
     
    We moved into a 1930s property last year and are undertaking some repair work on the roof (a Mansard) which has developed a few leaks on the flat part.

    The reverse side of the tiles in our loft space have been spray foamed by the previous owner, and unfortunately it's caused damp and mould issues on the timbers due to what I think is a lack of ventilation, worsened by the leaky roof. So I've carefully removed the foam by hand with a scraper and narrow blunt chisel. Not a fun job as it's crept into all the nooks and crannies around the tiles and battens.

    Promisingly, it does seem to be allowing more draughts to circulate in the attic, and has halted the spread of mould, so I feel like things are moving in the right direction. The issue now is that I have a very large amount of waste PU foam to deal with. Would appreciate any ideas on how I could re-use this, or is landfill really the only option? Elsewhere the house does need insulating, floors, walls etc, but unsure how best I could re-purpose it?
    • CommentAuthorKenny_M
    • CommentTimeJan 14th 2020
     
    I gather up all the bits and pieces of cut off foam and EPS etc and use them to top up loose fill loft insulation. I also use the bits as I work to fill odd shaped gaps etc, reduce the amount of expanding foam used in bigger spaces etc. Any odd spaces.

    Always seems a bit shocking how much waste that environmentally driven projects send to landfill!
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2020 edited
     
    Along similar lines, you can put them loose in e.g. ceiling joist bays, and then fill up the voids around it with warmcell (recycled newspaper cellulose insulation).

    Instead of warmcell you can also use reclaimed cavity wall mineral wool (you can apparently get cubic yard bags of this free from companies which remove incorrectly-fitted cavity wall insulation).

    If the pieces are small, then mix them up with the loose fill insulation first in a big box, dustbin etc.

    You can also build timber frame wall cassettes like this (so long as they have rigid sheet material both sides - assemble them horizontally first).
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      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2020
     
    Posted By: TimSmallYou can also build timber frame wall cassettes like this (so long as they have rigid sheet material both sides - assemble them horizontally first).

    I'd be worried about getting the necessary density to avoid settlement if it was loose-filled?
    • CommentAuthorTimSmall
    • CommentTimeJan 15th 2020
     
    I'd be worried about getting the necessary density to avoid settlement if it was loose-filled?


    That is a good point. When I've done similar assemblies in the past, I've been able to pack it in pretty tightly, but for a vertical timber wall this is important with cellulose etc. to avoid voids at the top of the wall...
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTime7 days ago
     
    When I was building around 10 years ago, I used Warmcell for all the insulation. I had wanted it damp sprayed, but was told that 180mm was too thick with the chance that it could fall out before the Fermacell was put up.

    So went for loose fill behind a scrim, and then the dry lining. Six months later, when installing the Fermacell in some other places, I did find cavities at the top.

    Bought an endoscope (pre USB days) and checked behind most of the Fermacell, and yes, there were cavities caused by consolation. To make matters lightly worse, I had more or less thought this may happen so had fitted extra noggins to reduce the height of each cavity.

    The installer had to return to squirt some more Warmcell into the top of each vertical drop.

    I'm pretty sure after 10 years, there is more compaction, but what can I do about it?

    The house is not cold so what I dont know, I cannot worry about!

    But if there is a next time, I will certainly go with the sprayed Warmcell method.
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