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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorbardo
    • CommentTimeJan 23rd 2020
    Hi all, looking to fixing down and seal 9mm OSB3 to bottom softwood flanges of floor ijoists. Insulation will go on top. Looking to make the base as airtight as possible given the limitations of OSB. To save money I'm thinking of glueing the osb to the flanges and using tape around the packed out ends and where the cut-out board meets the perimiter plinth wall/box beam which has a membrane over it. I've looked at airtight tape and there's a few acrylic tapes on the market which are specified for OSB and membrane. I'm not sure about glues. Can anyone recommend cost effective tapes / adhesives which will do the trick?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJan 24th 2020
    I don’t like relying on tapes for air tightness, I can foresee (sadly) a little damp and mould forming on top of the osb, this will be quite cold on frosty days and can’t escape easily at all WUFI analysis might help, nylon mesh wouldn’t entrap the moisture,easier and cheaper but won’t keep vermin out
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJan 24th 2020
    I would (and do) PU glue the boards...if you put plenty of this stuff in continuous runs, it will foam a little, and close gaps. The OSB boards will structurally shread before the glue fails, if you were to try to rip apart. It will seal to pretty much any thing. Better if you slightly dampen the surface first.


    I've no link to the above company, but their multi-boxes are pretty good value.

    FosterTom will likely agree, as it's his trademark thermal envelope approach, and it's hard to beat experience of people who both do it for a living, and are open minded enough to challenge their own approach.

    The only possible comment I might add, is the option to glue the board to the underside of I beam flange, giving you more depth of insulation fill, and less cutting around things like the web infill blocks. You would need to put a support under the board to hold till set (60 mins). I usually add just a few paslodes to make sure.

    Try one, stand on it the next day, and it won't budge.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJan 27th 2020 edited
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