Home  5  Books  5  GBEzine  5  News  5  HelpDesk  5  Register  5  GreenBuilding.co.uk
Not signed in (Sign In)


Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

Buy individually or both books together. Delivery is free!

powered by Surfing Waves

Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

Welcome to new Forum Visitors
Join the forum now and benefit from discussions with thousands of other green building fans and discounts on Green Building Press publications: Apply now.

    • CommentAuthorgfletcher
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2020
    Hi All,
    We had some engineered softwood windows installed around 7-8 years ago - they were factory finished with microporous stain. They are due for being re-painted and I am considering other options including Linseed Oil paints. I am struggling to find someone locally - we are in Leicester - who has experience of using them. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also, I would like to see some windows which have been painted using the linseed oil paints - the problem that I have is that the people who sell the paints say they are amazing, but they would - does anyone have any suggestions of independent reviews or places to see it having been used?

    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2020
    I would try asking local paints shops if they can recommend any tradespeople. Also perhaps ask the council's conservation/listed property officer. Even some manufacturers/suppliers might know of local tradespeople or reference sites.
    We used it on a set of hardwood windows that we fitted to a derelict cottage restoration. We found it very easy to use (perhaps even easier than other paints) I don’t think you would need a specialist to do it. The finish is nice because it seems more matte than chemical paint and it soaks in to the surface of the wood rather than forming a film on the surface.

    The only problem you might have now is that you would be applying it over a different paint finish so it might not soak in to the wood in the way that it would have done if it was used from the outset.

    I cannot testify to the longevity because we sold the place after a few years and before any repaint was required, although it is my understanding that you can just refresh it with linseed oil to rehydrate the surface (the pigment stays soaked in to the wood) and go over the putty and the burnt sand mastic all at the same time.
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2020
    Is linseed oil paint microporous? I would look to finish with something similar in nature to what is already on the wood. Linseed oil on its own is mainly used on bare wood so presume a pigmented linseed oil would be similar.
    Could you try a sample first and do some experimentation?
    I found the same problem with linseed oil paint as I found with the orange-oil solvent in Auro paints - it smells lovely at first, but after a hell of a lot of it you never want to smell orange oil or linseed oil ever again!:bigsmile:
    • CommentAuthorvord
    • CommentTimeMar 17th 2020
    I use only linseed paint on woodwork. It's an old house thing. You restore windows 200 years old and I doubt they would have survived that long had the paint process not at least started off with Linseed under the modern vandalism. Life of windows isn't so much of an issue these days so that might not be an issue here.

    Linseed is an oil like the oils inside the wood. It moves and breathes like wood does,keeps most of the water out, and lets the wood dry out when water gets in the gaps. It is best applied on bare wood with previous coatings stripped off. It works as a paint because the topsurface oxidises and kind of dries.

    It can be a complete pain. Apply only in very thin coats and leave for at least 24 hours in warm weather before another coat. Pignemtation tends to be weak and you are likely to need two or three coats. It goes matt quickly and white is tricky to wipe clean. It's a cottage industry and some paints go mouldy. I've not had a problem with Ingleby Traditional. Paint is smelly and can give you a headache if doing it indoors in a confined space.

    Benefits are when you need a repaint there is no cracked paint to remove. Linseed just dulls and dusts and never cracks. Just brush off the dirt and paint over, you can use pure linseed oil rather than a pigmented paint. Also the windows might last 200 years.
Add your comments

    Username Password
  • Format comments as
The Ecobuilding Buzz
Site Map    |   Home    |   View Cart    |   Pressroom   |   Business   |   Links   

© Green Building Press