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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTimeApr 26th 2020

    We have a late 1950 traditional red brick semi which was double height side extended 17 years ago.
    It is getting ready for refurb as things are wearing out and eldest has now left home etc.

    Existing windows are mainly 28mm double glazed and coated white PVC rehau units done at the time of the extension.(very badly with no sealing foam and lots of cold draughts around the frames but this is mainly sorted.)
    We have well insulated loft, mainly LED lighting, draft proofed etc., heavy curtains/blinds etc. I think heat loss through doors/windows is currently about 1/4 of heat leak through the floor which is solid and original parquee and tile. We are not planning to take this up as we like it. Extension floor has 100 mm of polystyrene under it and this as it was done in 2003.

    General question. Is it worth stumping up more for triple glazed rather than argon filled double glazed and could you give advice on good suppliers. We are after warm feel so we can sit by windows and areas are looking over garden and we want to be able to see it rather than masses of window frame as we do currently.
    Munster, Green Building Store and Vu Fold are currently people I am going to go to.

    We are after seeing out garden rather than window and door frames and a are looking for a good value frame system but it has to be very draft proof. Aluminium, wood or UPVc considered.

    1 to 3 are all at back of house, West facing evening sun. All one space that ventilates together. Look of the 3 windows and doors need to gel from inside and out.

    1.At the back we have a 2.4 m wide steel crittal door/ window that will not take a double glazed panel and even with secondary glazing is cold/knackered. I caulk them up for the winter and release them in the spring.
    We put laminated glass in some years ago when kids were toddling and the putty has leached into the glass too.

    We are looking to replace this with a large window with a seat/wooden wide ledge under after bricking up at low level.
    We have ventilation elsewhere and are thinking just one great big window about 2.4 m by 1.6m high
    We put laminated glass in some years ago when kids were toddling and the putty has leached into the glass too.

    2. We have Rehau french doors 1.8 m wide next to a 1.1 m window in the extension dining room.
    I have resealed the rubbers and still not happy they are very warm. Window is currently,where door should be as it stops sofa and table positions being in way of current walk way.

    We are thinking a 2 panel sliding door with good thermal performance and narrow frame so we can see garden better.(2.9 m wide) Not seen any PVC ones with narrow enough sightline.

    Bifolds I think will have too much frame for what we want them for.
    Low threshold with no trip hazard preferably flat.

    3. We have a kitchen sink window between 1 and 2 and would change it to match and get rid of centre of frame opening that stops me seeing the apple tree. Current window is about 1.1 m wide and left hand side opens outwards from the top, so we have to go outside to close it!
    Thinking a side handle with window that tilts inwards, hinged at bottom.

    Appreciate any input you can give me.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeApr 26th 2020
    Unquestionably go for 3g, higher quality, longer lasting, better air tightness and much better sound insulation.
    • CommentAuthorwookey
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020 edited
    If buying new windows, then yes definitely 3G. Especially if you care about comfort: one of the main differences is that the internal glass temp is above the critical 14C dewpoint temp even when it's very cold out (given a 20C internal temp) and the radiation temp of large area of glazing is important for comfort. It also largely prevents downdrafts in front of windows. The cost increment of 3G over 2G is not large.

    On the other hand, if you are not trying to get to passivehouse levels it's not crazy to replace the units in existing frames if they will take ones of decent width. A modern 2G unit can be half the U-value of a 2000 or older unit without warm spacers or softcoat low-E coatings. This avoids a load of emissions (and hassle) from new frames, so if the current ones are in reasonable nick, and you are happy with their operation, then keeping them and changing the glass may make sense. You can only get to about Uw=1.4 this way (Ug=1.1), as opposed to Uw=0.8, Ug=0.5 for good 3G, but that's still respectable, and new units are remarkably cheap.

    As you get closer to Enerphit you pretty much have to go 3G in the end.
    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2020
    Thanks for this. It reinforces what I have read.

    I am focusing the high spec glazing on rooms we live in and heat rather than bedrooms. I think the units will all be changing so will try for 3G.
    About 17 year old windows in house 28mm but not argon and warm edge. Only 1 unit starting to show signs of degrading/misting.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeMay 13th 2020
    3g frames, fittings, hinges and in general ironmongery are far higher standard and quality than the majority so much more robust. I would go for a European manufacturer
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