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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorCranbrook
    • CommentTime4 days ago
     
    one elevation on a new extension I’m building Sides on to a mountain meaning it won’t be seen, can anyone advise what would be a long lasting covering for exi, and obviously as it won’t be seen, it doesn’t need to be fancy, just long lasting and value for money
  1.  
    The only thing different to standard EWI layup that I would do would be to replace the final thin film acrylic render with a good quality exterior (breathable) render paint.
    • CommentAuthorCranbrook
    • CommentTime3 days ago
     
    So base coat and mesh as usual, but paint it instead of prime and render?
    • CommentAuthorrevor
    • CommentTime3 days ago
     
    Consider not rendering the insulation at all, batten out and fix box profile sheets to it. Comes in a variety of colours and profiles. Would be quick and a lot cheaper. Does the elevation get much light as you may get algae growth on render if very sheltered in which case box profile sheets can be easily cleaned being smooth. Been pricing up these sheets for a small outbuilding and the sheets work out at around £8 sqM. You can get them in various lengths standard being 3 M.
  2.  
    Posted By: revorConsider not rendering the insulation at all, batten out and fix box profile sheets to it.

    If you go down that route make sure the mice can't get in at the edges, and the small ones only need 1/2"

    Posted By: CranbrookSo base coat and mesh as usual, but paint it instead of prime and render?

    Yes
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTime3 days ago edited
     
    If the EWI is of 'proper' thickness i.e. 150 or more, you can't so easily 'batten out', as the EPS, wood fibre or whatever can't take the vertical load - it has to be carried by long screws (fat, lots of them) in bending. Even 100 thick is a long way for a screw to carry the weight of any cladding. Don't imagine that by tightening the screws the EPS will hold the battening in place by friction - it'll soon 'give' and gravity will do the rest.

    The only straightforward way to 'clad' EWI that thick is by render or (I find surprising) brick slips.
    • CommentAuthorCranbrook
    • CommentTime3 days ago
     
    <blockquote><cite>Posted By: fostertom</cite>If the EWI is of 'proper' thickness i.e. 150 or more, you can't so easily 'batten out', as the EPS, wood fibre or whatever can't take the vertical load - it has to be carried by long screws (fat, lots of them) in bending. Even 100 thick is a long way for a screw to carry the weight of any cladding. Don't imagine that by tightening the screws the EPS will hold the battening in place by friction - it'll soon 'give' and gravity will do the rest.

    The only straightforward way to 'clad' EWI that thick is by render or (I find surprising) brick slips.</blockquote>

    That's a very valid point which I had not thought about. However, I suppose on facades that need battening out, PIR boards can be used at a thinner width as opposed to EPS?
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTime3 days ago edited
     
    Posted By: fostertomIf the EWI is of 'proper' thickness i.e. 150 or more, you can't so easily 'batten out', as the EPS, wood fibre or whatever can't take the vertical load - it has to be carried by long screws (fat, lots of them) in bending.

    Surely that is easily dealt with, simply by inserting the screws sloping upwards so the load compresses against the EWI and puts the screws in tension instead of bending?

    edit: And/or of course supporting the battens either at the top or the bottom as you have suggested before.
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTime2 days ago
     
    If thickness is not an issue would a Larsen truss not be more value-for-money and eco- and DIY-friendly?
    • CommentAuthorCranbrook
    • CommentTime2 days ago
     
    I'm a builder and the timber frame is already up
  3.  
    After the Grenfell Tower lesson I would now think twice about battening straight over 'naked' EWI. If it were me I would do the 2 x base-coats as a bit of a fire-retarder, and as the result is apparently not to be seen, we are back to 2 x base-coats and paint (or not, even - check with suppliers. Certainly one supplier does a lime-based base-coat which can be left as the top coat).
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTime1 day ago
     
    Posted By: djhSurely that is easily dealt with, simply by inserting the screws sloping upwards so the load compresses against the EWI and puts the screws in tension instead of bending?
    That is a thought - who will be brave enough to give it a 50yr test?!

    Screw manufacturers are able to calc the (large) no of fixings reqd to carry the load in bending - wonder if they cd do same for this 'new' structural principle?
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