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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2020
     
    I'm strapping out a wall for tongue and groove cladding What's the best method of finding the highest spot or spots, for packing out the battens so all is even and plumb? I have a 2m spirit level and a cross laser level, or maybe a plumb line is best?
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2020 edited
     
    Batten each end first then a piece of string, where batten doesn’t fit behind string planer it or packer the end ones slightly so it does. I start 100mm out - plasterers do funny things near internal corners
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2020
     
    Some time ago I invested in 3.5M straight edge which has proved useful over the years. You can get them in various lengths up to 5M. Mine has proved very useful for laying out tiling, wood flooring, etc., or for checking crap work done by others. They are either box section alloy, and some with a feather edge.
    •  
      CommentAuthorfostertom
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2020 edited
     
    I invested in a site laser level https://www.laser-level.co.uk/fre-205-ek-112r-auto-rotary-laser-level.html (but a less comprehensive kit of accessories) after years of hiring. Unfortunately I didn't see the need for one that can spin the laser beam in vertical as well as horizontal plane.

    But I started experimenting to mount it on its side on the tripod, so spinning the beam vertically. Didn't complete the experiment, but the idea was to mount it close to the wall, parallel to whatever the nominal plumb plane should be on plan, and measure from that to any likely high spots on the wall face - smaller distances = high points.
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeJun 15th 2020
     
    All sound like useful ideas - Tony, I'm only putting on horizontal battens to affix vertical cladding to, can I still use your method?

    The straight edge seems to have longer term usefulness, so will investigate cost.
    •  
      CommentAuthordjh
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2020
     
    Posted By: mitchinoThe straight edge seems to have longer term usefulness, so will investigate cost.

    A length of regularised timber is cheaper than a level. Select one that is straight.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2020
     
    Battens at top and bottom first if they are horizontal and straight bit of wood, see if offcut of batten fits behind
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJun 17th 2020 edited
     
    +1

    Although I'd suggest a variation to ensure you only need packing (eg avoiding the need to cut pressure treated battens to reduce thickness)...

    Fit temporary battens top and bottom just to support the string.
    Move vertical string around measuring distance to wall until you find the highest point.
    Fit horizontal batten near highest point first, packing where necessary to make it straight.
    Pack out the temporary top and bottom battens to suit the one near the high point. Use string to check all three are in same plane.
    Fit all other battens, packing where necessary.

    If really keen leave cut ends of battens in bucket of preserver overnight. If not so keep just paint the cut ends with preserver.
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeJun 20th 2020
     
    Thanks everyone, after buying a great little laser level,

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Self-Leveling-Green-Laser-Level-Horizontal/dp/B074Z52383/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=laser&qid=1592646532&sr=8-14

    in the end I used a good old plumb bob and a long straight edge, all levelled to a tolerance I'm happy with.
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