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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
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    • CommentAuthorGMorin
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2020 edited
    Hi All,

    I'm just starting a project of remodelling our house, which includes lifting the roof and adding a second story.

    My intention is to clad the first floor with Siberian larch vertical 44mm x 44mm battens similar to the attached.

    To test the idea out I will use it on some outbuildings, However I'm finding it very hard to find details in the technique.

    The outbuildings are brick so I will not use UV membrane, ( i will on the house).

    I will use chamfered horizontal battens attached to the wall with masonry screws, for the houses I will use thin vertical battens, then chamfered horizontal battens.

    Then the vertical cladding battens will be fixed via cladding screws to the horizontal battens.

    All the information I'm finding on line is mainly standard closed joint cladding and does not seem appropriate, i.e. use mesh to stop vermin or details around openings.

    Can anyone point me to any appropriate information


    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2020 edited
    Looks like an Architect special which will be why no detailing info on the web.

    Being open it provides no real weatherproofing so you will need to find a decent quality membrane to go behind it on the house. Most of those I've seen have an exposure limits of a few to 6 months but I guess permanent exposure types must be out there.

    I think you should consider doing the same vertical,horizontal,vertical design on the outbuilding..


    "Vertical boards will need to be fixed to horizontal battens which will prevent drainage and vertical circulation so it is necessary to introduce a vertical counter batten often with a chamfer behind the horizontal batten"
    • CommentAuthorGMorin
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2020 edited
    Thanks for your response.

    I did find a membrane designed for open joint cladding which I intend to use on house, FaƧadeshield UV, https://www.proctorgroup.com/products/facadeshield

    The main reason I wasn't going to use cross battening on the outhouses, is by the nature of the wide open joint batten cladding, there will be good air circulation, I'm also chamfering the horizontal batten to encourage run off.
    • CommentTimeJul 9th 2020
    You may find you need to pre-drill all the holes for the cladding screws, to avoid the narrow boards splitting.

    Their website says the membrane will last 'permanently'. I would want to find out what they actually mean by that. Is there a specific warranty period and if so what conditions need to be fulfilled when it is installed?
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2020
    It's a nice look but I'd be very concerned about it looking shabby in a short while. I have several concerns not particularly structural ones more maintenance. I would consider putting a continuous dark coloured/black material surface on the battens first to avoid the whole structure becoming a nesting site for all-sorts of wildlife. The vertical boards would IMO need to be sanded and finished before fixing. You could also achieve something similar with vertical interval boarding
    • CommentAuthorGMorin
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2020
    djh, I do intend to pre drill the holes. I will do more research on the membrane.


    The black membrane on the front of the battens is a interesting idea, for it to work I would have to loop it behind the battens at the top and bottom and the sides.

    I've picked siberian larch so it does not need to be treated, so i thought.

    I a haven't heard of vertical interval boarding, i will take a look. I had thought of using shadow gap cladding as a full back on the house.

    Thanks for the replies
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2020 edited
    Machining timber into a more square edged contepmporary, vertical, shiplap, design ( if that makes sense), would solve many of my misgivings, and create a sort of interval look,- it could look good, if without the definition that the more stark shadow that separate boards above create.
    You could also look at lining the whole wall on top of your initial verticals with something like phenolic resin ply,- say 6mm, and then vertical battens on top as your plan above.
    Both those options would allow for some sort of insulation beneath.

    P.S. If you use Siberiam larch make sure you specify a clear grade for this sort of thing.
    • CommentAuthorGMorin
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2020

    I have the machine larch battens already, I'm quite please with them.

    For my old outbuildings I'm not too bothered about the vermin control, we live in the country and mice and rats up and down the garden.

    However I would be concerned on my house, I could use something like this on the battens, https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/fly-screen-insect-mesh/special-offers/pet-proof-insect-screen.html.

    My main concern will be trapping moisture directly behind the cladding.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeJul 10th 2020
    That looks good enough for the job and would provide a good contrast/shadow effect. BTW you may be able to save yourself some work by using nylon spacer washers behind the horizontal fixing battens and omitting the vertical battens altogether. It depends on how good/even the substrate is of course. If it's at all lumpy then verticals with packers to even out the dips may be better. If you don't get thet first bit as near perfect as possible any undulating errors will telegraph through to the top layer.
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJul 13th 2020
    GMorin, I've used that exact flymesh on several projects for exactly this purpose. Keeps out wasps from nesting.

    You may still want to paint the horizontal battens with a black paint, as the they will still show through to some extent.

    I also use a stainless steel mesh at the base, a 75mm wide role is available. Fix it horizontally to the wall (substructure) where the bottom of the vert batten will stop, leaving the mesh hanging down. Then fix the vert battens on top of the mesh. Fold the SS mesh up over the vert battens, and then nip the mesh with the bottom horiz batten. The SS mesh is pretty sharp, so wear gloves.

    Proctor stuff is really good. Usually spec it on my jobs.
    Hi GreenPaddy - do you have a link for the 75mm stainless mesh that you use by any chance please?
    • CommentAuthorGreenPaddy
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2020
    Here's one, but googling "stainless steel soffit vent fly mesh", will give others. This is a pretty good price.


    I normally staple it on, so lots of fixings stopping anything squeezing past it.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2020
    Posted By: GMorinOwlman,

    I have the machine larch battens already, I'm quite please with them.

    Are they long enough to go full height or will you have to butt them end to end? If the latter I was wondering how to keep them perfectly aligned (eg prevent steps appearing if they warp)? Arranging for the joints to be on battens and nailing the ends like you do for horizontal planks might be tricky?

    I wonder if there is another way such as end drilling and using stainless steel alignment pins?
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2020
    Posted By: CWattersstainless steel alignment pins

    Any reason not to use a wooden dowel?
    Scarf joint? Or something fancy if you have the right router bit?
    • CommentAuthorGMorin
    • CommentTimeJul 14th 2020
    @greenpaddy thank you for the information, very useful.

    @CWatter the timber i have is long enough for single lengths, so that should not be a problem. The supplier can go up to 6m.

    If I had to join, I think I would do it at a batten and cut the cladding at an angle and put a screw through both.
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeJul 16th 2020 edited
    Posted By: djhAny reason not to use a wooden dowel?

    I was thinking of cut up cladding nails rather than custom made pins.
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