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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2020
     
    What ho one and all,

    Although my house is timber frame, there is very little exposed wood. However, the timber frame around the garage door is somewhat exposed, and I guess ten year life of the paint job is pretty good. So time to repaint.

    I managed to keep the previous pint but it is of course, now totally useless.

    I have removed most of the paint although that which is well adhered is still there. But I not an expert painter and uncertain what next.

    Should I apply wood preservative before the undercoat? Or just undercoat because the implication of the directions are that it can be applied directly to the wood? Certainly my impression of the preservative directions is that it is for unpainted wood.

    I have been reading the Sikkens web site and am also confused by the number of products available. Don't even know if what was originally applied is the correct stuff, but it has certain lasted well so happy to use the same again.

    Many thanks

    Rex
      Paint 2.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 21st 2020
     
    Pic of the door frame please ๐Ÿ™‚
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2020
     
    The horizontal beam is OK, only needs a rub down and re-paint. It is the verticals, and particualrly the front surfaces that have 'suffered' with weathering.

    The preservative in the photo is the one that was originally used, and is more bug resistant than water proofing. I am happy to use is again, but do wonder what happens when it is applied over existing, well adhered paint.

    Don't really want to remove all the paint if it is not necessary, but I hope that the new will last for a similar time. But I know from experience that new over old is never the best idea.
      GarageDoor.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2020
     
    Not too worried about precervative, rub down acrylic primer, undercoat the whole lot, then gloss or eggshell, preferably oil based.

    I would cut off the bottom 10mm up, not essential but will stop it sucking up water, you can treat the bottoms with presertive, but donโ€™t paint, best to leave as bare wood so it can dry out.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 22nd 2020
     
    Thanks for your reply. The base is not actually touching the ground although there is a rubber strip around the outer edge to reduce the chance of water getting under. It is about a 10mm gap. Don't think there is much chance of increasing the gap now and the end grain is not painted.

    I was just more concerned with re-applying preservative or not to the existing paint.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 23rd 2020
     
    No preservative needed on existing paint.
    • CommentAuthorRex
    • CommentTimeJul 30th 2020
     
    In the process of rubbing down the vertical supports and will be apply some preservative to the bare wood and recoating with Sikkens under and Satin, which are the original coatings.

    However, although there is a 10mm gap at the bottom, the section of timber that contacts the garage door framework, has a bit of rot. Obviously, dampness has percolated and does not get a lot of chance to dry out. Could be partly my fault as to prevent rainwater splashing or blowing under, I had a length of silicone 'sponge' cord around the edge. This certainly prevented the water getting under but I assume that water sha sneaked under by capillary action and although it is open on the rear (inside the garage) there is hardly sufficient air flow.

    So am wondering about cutting a hole in the rear of the metal-work to allow the wood to to dry out in the future.

    Ideally, there should be an air gap but that is not possible.

    In the photo, the arrow shows the bit of rot; number 1 is the metal 'decorative' dressing part of the door frame and the circle is where I propose to cut a hole.

    Is the hole a reasonable idea or is there a 'better' solution.

    Thanks and toodle pip
      GarageDoor2.jpg
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeJul 30th 2020
     
    Good idea,
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