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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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  1.  
    Hi,

    I bought a metal shed as near to a house and hopefully security for whats in it.

    I want to line it so I can fix things on the lining.

    I learnt about Fermacell on here.

    Would it be suitable as a single skin?

    The shed has vents in either apex.

    Would it suffer from the damp air in the gap?

    I would be happy to try and water seal the outer facing surface.

    And porous paint on the inside.

    Not worried about insulation values.

    It has a 3/4 plywood floor on joists.

    Cheers. Andrew.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 1st 2020
     
    It will work, I would use OSB, in both cases the sheets should not touch flat metal mote then 5mmwide, long is ok
  2.  
    Hi Tony,

    Well OSB is probably cheaper and maybe stronger.

    I am putting a bench across the back which can be structural. perhaps open corner shelves over as braces and two corner cupboards at the front. I tend to use roofing laths as framing as cheap and treated, though not as well these days. I will make it as near a freestanding box on the floor as I can.

    Thin board on a frame is strong enough.

    I have a stock of Stanley 45deg wedge plastic brackets from my wardrobe fitting days which are strong and do not rust!

    OSB seems OK. I will use my standard treatment and some water seal.

    Thanks. Andrew.
  3.  
    I have a metal shed and fitted timber inserts into the U channels that make up the wall framework. I then fitted untreated OSB3 onto the timber inserts. It has been completed for a couple of years with no deterioration. When I fitted an electricity supply I had to have a separate earth for the shed itself.
  4.  
    Hi

    Are you saying 3/4 OSB would do for the floor Tony?

    So I need to bolt an earth cable to ground for the metal shed Peter. It is on a wooden 8x2 wooden fram base to make it have enough headroom for me.

    Cheers. Andrew.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 2nd 2020
     
    OSB fine for the floor yes
    • CommentAuthorEd Davies
    • CommentTimeSep 2nd 2020
     
    Posted By: AndiesHandyHandiesSo I need to bolt an earth cable to ground for the metal shed Peter. It is on a wooden 8x2 wooden fram base to make it have enough headroom for me.
    Yes, the shell of the building is an “extraneous conductive part” so should be bonded to earth. The fact that it's on a wooden base makes this more, not less, necessary.

    In an ideal world you'd just connect the shell of the building to the incoming earth of the sub-main from the house.
    We don't live in an ideal world: if there's any fault in the PEN (protective earth/neutral) conductor coming on to your property then the earth and/or neutral wires within your property could rise to near line (“live”) voltages. Within a house this isn't often a complete disaster as all the metalwork is either bonded to the same earth or just insulated and floating so people touching various things aren't likely to get much of a shock.

    On the other hand, for metal-framed external structures with mains power such as metal sheds, caravans or electric cars being charged, there's the possibility that somebody standing on the real earth outside could also touch the frame and get a serious belt. For this reason, the earth of such structures should be bonded to an electrode pushed into the muddy earth (or otherwise be protected in more complicated ways as required for electric vehicle chargers).
  5.  
    Posted By: AndiesHandyHandiesSo I need to bolt an earth cable to ground for the metal shed Peter.


    Yes, as Ed says. In my case I used a 2.4m earth rod because of the soil conditions.
  6.  
    Earthing is only needed if there is a power supply running to the shed, in which case the sparky who designs and tests the installation, will specify and test the earth resistance (and many other things) which will depend on soil conditions.

    EG you should not have the shed connected to an earth rod whilst the plug sockets are connected to PEN, even indirectly by the cable armour.
  7.  
    Hi

    A NHBC inspector says to line the shed with 25mm PIR.

    Is that a good idea to make it more comfortable to work in?

    My Astro mate says in horse sheds they use some sort of felt material to line them has anyone seen that?

    Cheers. Andrew.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2020
     
    Yes, it catches and absorbs condensation especially common on underside of roof sheets , wicks it in and it makes it way down into the guttering or drips harmlessly away outside. Any left when the sun comes out is boiled away
  8.  
    Hi Tony,

    They must be designed then to have a gap at the eaves for the felt to go through and reach the gutter.

    My little metal shed is not suitable for that then.

    I have been looking at Youtubes of the wooden house constructions they do in the US where they use plywood, OSB and even cardboard! structures. Damp under window openings and at the bottom are issues.

    Also there is a building consultant who goes on about fully ventilated roof space with no HIVAC pipes in, which loose heat!.

    Building a sperate wooden 'shed' inside the metal one with water sealed outside panels and ventilation of the gap should work? I would need to put some vents in the 8x2 frame and between the wooden shed floor and the 8x2 lip the metal shed frame sits on.

    Cheers. Andrew.
  9.  
    Hi

    I do not need a full metal shed filling wooden workspace.

    Most efficient use of materials is to build a 8'x8' OSB shed inside.

    Space the front and back boards off the sides with 38mm laths make a true 8' inside width. Anther lath planted on sideways for the back and front to be screwed onto.
    Two 2'x8' doors on the front.

    Room for a timber rack on the side with the roof on that side extending over to stop drips.

    And a 3'x9' free space behind the shed doors.

    Cheers. Andrew.
    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2020
     
    Sounding good. Which metal shed did you go for ?

    What ventilation to take moisture away from the OSB inner tent ? Likely best not to be too air tight.

    I guess door likely open when you are inside which is main source of moisture
    Nothing in there should generate moisture you are just dealing with day to night issues and the metal outer will stop it getting too hot/ act as sunshade (will get hot)

    Slight slope on OSB sealed outer roof just in case so any water will drain away ?
  10.  
    Hi,

    Picture of inside with floor, shuttering ply, about to go down.
    Clear treatment and water seal under. Water seal and Ronseal floor paint over.

    The noggins are well treated as well as tanelised.

    There will be a natural hole at the back in the floor and 5mm expansion gap round the floor.
    Is that enough ventilation?

    Need roof with slope for head room in the middle!
    I will probably felt it as simplest.

    So far no noticible condensation issues. It is damp as some mild steel went rusty in there.

    The shed faces south so low down water heater on front and radiator high up in shed, natural convection flow?

    How big vents in 8'x8' 'shed' inside then?

    Cheers. Andrew.
    • CommentAuthorLF
    • CommentTime2 days ago
     
    Picture missing ?
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