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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2020
     
    Not a green question but I'm about to clad a shed and was going to use 14.5mm treated T&G boards. After reading up I'm worried about contraction and expansion, and wondered if non T&G shiplap would be better? Looking at this product:

    https://www.ruby-group.co.uk/collections/ruby-uk-treated-scandinavian-redwood-shiplap/products/shiplap-cladding?variant=974409039891
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 6th 2020
     
    I like 200 or 225 FE boards
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2020
     
    Most of the movement is probably in the length not the width. I planked my outbuilding and at butt joints I fitted strips of DPM so that if gaps open they remain watertight. The excess DPC can be trimmed off after so you can't see it.
      shiplap.jpg
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2020 edited
     
    i was always told double nailing was the issue with shiplap and or nailing through the over lap with feather edge.
    One nail towards the bottom 1/3rd of the profile holds the upper well and secures the lower thin top edge.
    this allows expansion.
    • CommentAuthortony
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2020
     
    👍
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2020 edited
     
    +2

    Nailing guide..
      Nailing.jpg
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2020
     
    hmm james says one nail, cwattters diagram says two... I like the idea of one, but went to look at a bunch of garden buildings in a garden centre and they all seem to have two... what a dilemma!
    • CommentAuthorjamesingram
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2020 edited
     
    Only the centre diagram suggests 2.
    I'd see Shiplap more like the 2 examples on the left.
    Personally I think it's incorrect
    Every time I've seen splitting its because of 2 fixings.
    In recent years vertical cladding has become fashionable and they appear to use a larger pilot then a washer to give a little movement or stop tightness around the fixing shaft. I guess if one fixing didn't secure the Shiplap this method would reduce the chance of two fixings splitting it. Bit of fiddle though doing it that way though.
    • CommentAuthorowlman
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2020 edited
     
    CWatters 20 hours ago
    "Most of the movement is probably in the length not the width."

    That's incorrect CW, the vast majority of wood shrinkage is in the width (tangential) and or thickness,( radial), NOT the length, ( longitudinal).
    If you use double nailing and put one nail, for instance, too close to the thin part of feather edged boards so that the next board covers that one nail, you risk width shrinkage splitting the board. with the split piece buried under the board above.
    • CommentAuthormitchino
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2020
     
    I'll go one nail methinks
    • CommentAuthorOtterbank
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2020
     
    We have the second profile on the house. One nail as shown and we’ve had no issues in 10 years.
    Regards
    Michael
    • CommentAuthorphiledge
    • CommentTimeOct 11th 2020
     
    Possibly more important than the type of board and how you nail it, is having a decent eaves overhang or guttering to keep the boards as dry as possible and minimise seasonal swelling
    • CommentAuthorCWatters
    • CommentTime1 day ago
     
    Posted By: owlmanCWatters 20 hours ago
    "Most of the movement is probably in the length not the width."

    That's incorrect CW, the vast majority of wood shrinkage is in the width (tangential) and or thickness,( radial), NOT the length, ( longitudinal).


    Red face here. I did actually know that.

    As a percentage they definitely shrink more in width but boards are long and thin so quite large vertical gaps can open up and can be more of a problem for cladding. I used green oak and have 8mm gaps in a few places.

    The idea behind those nailing patters is that they work like two nails but only use one. The board is held top and bottom but can still move in width without splitting. See the notes "Nail clears tip", "Expansion Clearance" and "Half inch space".

    I used plain rectangular section boards, heart side out, overlapped like the Plain Bevel Boards in the drawing. One nail for which I drilled clearance holes.

    I used stainless steel ring shank nails with plain heads but should have used diamond pattern to stop reflections.
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