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Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition
Green Building Bible, fourth edition (both books)
These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment.

PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book.

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    • CommentAuthorCharli
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2020
    1900 house with a tiny 1950s extension. There's damp in the extension, making an internal wall very damp (there's even mould growing on it).
    - original house is 9 inch brick walls, external walls internally insulated with PIR
    - extension is breeze block, external walls insulated internally
    - internal walls bridge the insulation at points, there's no turned-back insulation on them
    - floor is concrete, which does have a dpm in
    - walls have both a slate and injected dpm

    The mouldy wall is in the hallway next to the front door, in the extension. It has gypsum restoration plaster on (the kind with perlite in). And the external ground level is higher than the internal ground level (hence the damp)

    However I can't change the outside ground levels (I don't own the land outside- it belongs to the neighbour). It is concrete up to the side of the house over very shallow services (they literally put the service pipes in on top of the ground and poured concrete on top). There's rainwater drains right up to the side of the house, as well as manholes for the neighbours bathroom. The concrete does slope away from the house.

    Said neighbour is resistant to me doing any work on that land (his grandson lives with him, and has a learning disability and hates noise and disruption). He isn't going to let me dig everything out and relocate the services deeper down! He won't mind me doing some work- french drains or something? However the wettest patch it where the rainwater drain is right up to the brick of the house.

    Any ideas of what i can do to mitigate/live with the damp? In a cost effective manner, without having to do loads of work on land/services that I don't own!
    Check the drain is not blocked/full of silt which could be stopping it draining effectively?

    (edit) Check gutters and down pipes as well.
    I have been very impressed with tanking slurry painted on the inside of the walls. You would have to remove the IWI first, paint the walls 2 coats, then reinsulate. Doesn’t cure the problem, only the symptoms. We had 2 previous properties partially underground that we used it on.
    • CommentTimeOct 16th 2020
    Posted By: Dominic CooneyCheck the drain is not blocked/full of silt which could be stopping it draining effectively?

    Sounds like it is the neighbour's drains so might be difficult. A drain could also be broken/leaking.

    It sounds like Charli needs some specialist legal advice first as to what is possible and what is not and how to proceed. I don't have any relevant knowledge, I'm afraid, maybe somebody else does?
    It sounds like the neighbour is reasonable enough to let you go round and investigate - that would cause no noise or disruption.
    When we moved here 6 years ago, almost every drain trap on the place was blocked with silt. Complete lack of basic maintenance.
    No cost option eliminated first before worrying about the more intensive/expensive stuff.
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