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			<title>Green Building Forum - Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
			<lastBuildDate>Mon, 25 May 2026 17:05:12 +0100</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20035#Comment_20035</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 12:13:34 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>EdF</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Know this isn't 'green' but I'd appreciate some advice, please, as I've searched the web and have not found any info elsewhere. I've just started fitting softwood window frames into new apertures in an extension (after the builder cleared off with my money). The windows are top hinged and have a slider mechanism down the insides of the frame. There's  a 3" gap at the bottom of the mechanism which would take a fixing point. Trouble is, there's no room at the top to fix the frame to the blockwork. I've used frame fixings before, without much success - some seem to jam, bend or break or just go wrong, even after using the correct drill and clearing the dust from the hole, so I'm not confident about using them anyway. (And do you drill the pins in or hammer them??) Would it be okay to use some sort of bracket to hold the windows in place where I can't fit a conventional fixing, perhaps using simple 'L' shaped ones which would be hidden behind the plasterboard eventually?  Thanks for any comments.]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20047#Comment_20047</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 18:04:57 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[that is OK to do.  How thick is your wall<br /><br />Easiest way to do job is to temporarily remove the opening sash, fix the frame (behind the hinge runners, refit the sash. Try using frame fixings with no plugs.]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20074#Comment_20074</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20074#Comment_20074</guid>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 22:00:00 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>chuckey</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[You can get various fixings that go directly into  concrete blocks. Wedge the frame in the correct place, drill pilot hole through frame into  block, screw  in fixings. Be careful to get the concrete (fine thread)  and not  aereated block fixings ( coarse thread). The other way, I have seen it done for windows and a wooden door frame, it to wedge frame in hole, squirt in special foam, leave 1/2 Hr then trim of excess with sharp  knife and point/ plaster  a fillet in place. Seems to work but for how long?<br />            Frank]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20078#Comment_20078</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 22:22:16 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>jamesingram</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Cut some small lengths of galvisnised metal strapping (approx 25mm wide  100-150mm long), <br /> screw them to the edge of the window frames so as they stick into the internal side (room) about half way<br />wedge the window in place with packers<br />drill and screw the straps to the revels ( plastered over later)<br />then foam the window in with expanding foam , use the frame fixing stuff as it expands less , you only need a little<br />use a foam gun if you can get one , tape a mastic nozzel over the end, to give you a adjustable flow, flatten it with a hammer for tight gaps<br />once the foams formed a skin you can push back into the gap to get it out the way and tidy it up, externally cover the gap with some kind of trim<br />perhaps wood<br />You can do it just with the packer and foam if you wont , I doubt any burglars will be clever enough to saw it out<br />and its a better fixing than any frame fixer and a lot less hassle]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20086#Comment_20086</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20086#Comment_20086</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 08:15:57 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>EdF</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Many thanks for all those ideas!  I've discovered two big apertures are 1830mm wide when the frames are 18000mm, due to the crooked builder also being illiterate (he also built one side wall 50mm higher than the other and made the door aperture far too small). I suppose some wooden strips down each side of the window will fix it, though.. Thanks again, guys. <br />Tony, the walls are conventional cavity walls in 4" concrete blocks. I thought frame fixings didn't use plugs but had those plastic sleeves (same thing..?) Ed.]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20119#Comment_20119</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20119#Comment_20119</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 13:43:18 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>tony</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[I think that you should fit to the inside edge of the outside skin --  dont use wood as a packer -- we use fancy fixings which dont need plugs and dont bend the window frame even when tightened.]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20135#Comment_20135</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20135#Comment_20135</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 16:31:33 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>EdF</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[They sound interesting. No need to use wood as a packer in the first one, I've just cream-crackered myself trying to grind down the blocks as the aperture was too small and not square - after three attempts I'm almost there, but dripping. It was quicker and cheaper than buying a planer! If I shouldn't use wood as a packer on those frames which are 30mm too small, what would I use? I intended to use a couple of pieces of planed timber screwed/glued to the outside of the frame and treated to match. I guess the rendering will just about cover it..]]>
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		<title>Fitting Windows Into a Concrete Block Cavity Wall.</title>
		<link>https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20137#Comment_20137</link>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1683&amp;Focus=20137#Comment_20137</guid>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 16:45:42 +0100</pubDate>
		<author>CWatters</author>
		<description>
			<![CDATA[Sorry about your builder. Hope your BCO is understanding. Best not try to do the electrics yourself without talking it over with the BCO first.]]>
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