Green Building Bible, Fourth Edition |
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These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. PLEASE NOTE: A download link for Volume 1 will be sent to you by email and Volume 2 will be sent to you by post as a book. |
Vanilla 1.0.3 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
Posted By: tonyNo! But in the hierarchy, first comes switching things off then draughtproofing and air sealing, insulation, ceilings walls and floors, windows are last on the list of priorities. I prefer 3g with no draughts round the frames.
Posted By: tonyNot ventilation =
Posted By: tonyScottish heritage have published some good work on this and written advice.
Posted By: tonyaThis may or may not have any bearing on your issue. We bought a modernish build (1959) because of the view and grounds it is on. We didn't expect it to be so cold but in noth facing rooms was unbearable. So i IWI'd the rooms and it has made a massive difference. I also ripped out the UPVC windows and decided to make wooden one (that was an education but saved £1000's) It has all worked well. Walls are now warm to the touch (double wall blockwork with gap and filled very badly at some point) I just battened internal walls and inserted Cellotex 20mm boards inbetween. Plasterboarded over. No damp or condensation issues.
Posted By: tonyNot everything is about money
Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary3G is 0.07That's 0.7
Posted By: wholaaOn a very cold day, check how well that new 3500mm of fibreglass is behaving with a thermal camera. You will be amazed how many cold gaps can be present by just a 1 cm gap between ceiling and wool
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